You cut the Yellow/Green Wire and then connect the vehicle side wire to say the White Wire on the 2 wire trailer harness. Then the Red wire on that harness = connect to ground. Connect the two black halves together (other side is connected to your shuttle valve switches).

 

Well i guess this may be just the problem or my 3 Amigos wouldn't you say? Ordering a new one today. I have to wonder now why this guy sold me this "Rebuilt" titled D2??? Too many issues for him i'm sure...
Originally a Florida truck re-titled in Rhode Island. Maybe it was salvaged as a flood vehicle then repaired to Rebuilt status... How else would so much salt & sand be caught in here to corrode the wring like this. I've already fixed the Corroded wire white and green wire from the Inertia switch underneath the fuse block causing a no start & hazard light issues. What else am i going to find ? Ehhh the life and love a Land Rover Enthusiast...

 

See if the frame is full of sand!

I find em looking like that very often (without any brown insulation left). Then the wires are just free to move around and ground out against the Wabco Modulator Body.

 

Wow. That's fugly.

When I did the Option B upgrade 9+ years ago the shuttle valve switches looked great and resistance tested fine per Josh Salas's test steps. I didn't replace the switches, and all these years later the shuttle valve switches are still going strong. But in this case, replacing the switches is obviously needed. Replace the swiches, do Option B, and you'll be fine. (For this problem. )

 

Yep if the copper didn't have so much corrosion on them I'd say slap on some 3/32 heat shrink and go from there (which could work as a spare) but I would recommend a new one and go from there as well.

 

Holy crap dude! That module is AFU!!!!

 

So you think i should still do the bypass wiring option? i did not see any issue of corrosion on the SVS plug contacts. Not sure what is the purpose of the little circuit board in the block? So i was just going to straight up just replace it... by passing it would do what in effect?

 

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So you think i should still do the bypass wiring option? i did not see any issue of corrosion on the SVS plug contacts. Not sure what is the purpose of the little circuit board in the block? So i was just going to straight up just replace it... by passing it would do what in effect?

 

I will have to take a look at the frame more for sure but looked to be solid...unlike another D2 have which is all rotted out at the back rails which seem to be an issue wit these

 

That's a fact jack!