I have set of shuttle valves I can send you if you like. I am out of town for a couple weeks, but glad to do it when I am home.

 

I had originally set the ground on the AC hose anchor. I would periodically still get the Amigos. Scanning would show an electrical issue. I decided to run the ground all the way around to the three ground bolts by the battery. No issues since

 

hey yuenie you still have the ABS Amigo reader?

 

Does anyone know anyone who rents out their code reader? I've replaced my Wabco SVS and still have amigos (no brake light though). The original SVS had one messed up boot and some fluid around that area. I'm not sure what this indicates. I keep seeing references to Option B, but the sticky seems to be outdated since the links are dead at this point. Am I supposed to start with Option A? I have a 1 foot two-wire trailer connector. I don't know if that's long enough. I guess I'm supposed to cut it in half and plug it into itself... is this really better than just using wire and soldering? What gauge wire do you use? Sometimes amigos turn on right after starting up - sometimes only after driving a bit. I'm not sure what this indicates. A while ago, there was some fluid at one of the brake pads and I got an o-ring (about 4" in diameter) that I believe is for the axle, but haven't got to it yet - just had tons going on and struggling to deal with it all. Hope everyone's well. Cheers

 

Option B is extremely simple. You remove your Shuttle Valve Switch assembly, cut off the black connector which originally plugged into the Wabco Unit. Once cut off that is where you either use 2 3M butt connectors to splice in the 2 wire trailer harness (yes you cut it in half). Then about 5-6inches down you cut the Yellow/Green wire and connect one wire from the 2 wire trailer connector to it, and the other side to a good ground. That's it you've bypassed the weak link connector inside the Wabco ABS unit and Option B is complete.

If you remove your shuttle valve switch assembly and find all the brown insulation is rotten off the wires you can get some 3/32 heatshrink and slide it over the wire to re-insulate them.

 

Really? Have you looked in the stickies?

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-thread-97408/

 

as mln01 so eloquently put it, take a look at the Stickies section. second Sticky down.

 

Thanks - sorry, I get a bit overwhelmed by all the information and I'm slowly going through everything in the stickies to try to keep on top of things.

My update here is to say that I've managed to complete the Option B modification and the amigos fiesta appears to be over, although I'm not going to celebrate until I drive more to be sure.

Thank you all for all of the help.

At this point, can I safely say that the work I did was done properly since the amigos didn't pop up as soon as the car was started and if the amigos return it's most likely some other type of issue that can be determined more accurately with a proper scanner?

Also, since I didn't see the amigos when the car was started or throughout the 20 minute drive, does that mean I won't need a special scanner to clear the codes to be sure the work I just did was done properly? Thank you again for all of your help.

I always do my best to understand these issues and pass on the information to others - I've learned a good amount here, including testing the SVS values with a multimeter, so I'll be glad to help others as they come along.

I used a spade-type terminal for the ground connection, but I might replace it later with a ring terminal if there's an issue, just didn't have one big enough. The grounding connection can be made between the bolt and the bracket that holds the AC line, right? Or should it touch the body of the vehicle and the bracket that holds the AC line?

 

Glad to hear you got your 3-amigos under control.
I will say it’s always good to have a diagnostic scan tool for any car, especially for these Land Rovers.
The area of the grounding bolt you used should be fine. if you have a multimeter do a continuity check from the battery negative to the bolt you are using to ground the wire.

 

Thanks, I'll perform a continuity test and see what we get. If there's continuity, the grounding point is solid, right?

I have a diagnostic tool, but it's nothing like the professional tools that can apparently scan ABS codes and such - it's just an Autel middle-of-the-road thing, but it's useful and I'm able to pull plenty of codes from it.