Hey all,
The AC in my 99 Disco II quit blowing air. Everything seems like it should be working. Voltage reads fine. I can hear clicking when I turn it in (and confirmed the compressor engages), it clicks when I turn the fan speed up and down, but the fan WILL NOT come on. I purchased a new fan motor and replaced it…nothing. Replaced the resistor…nothing.

Here’s what I’ve checked:
- No fault codes ✅
- Blower fan motor ✅ (voltage is fine but also replaced just in case)
- Resistor ✅ (also replaced just in case)
- Freon ✅
- Compressor ✅
- Fuses ✅
- Relay ✅

What am I missing?

 

Start with interior fuses 6 and 7 (front blower and rear blower, if equipped with rear a/c). A known issue with those two. Between the power in and the power out (to blower via the fuse, there is broken solder that shows 12v, but the cracked solder cannot handle the amperage and temporarily melts severing power until it cools. Eventually it's permanently severed. Pull the power in wire and connect to the power out wire via a same size inline fuse, bypassing the factory fuse. Search for blower fixed on this site, this a common problem for our d2s.

 

Thanks…I’ll give it a shot and report back.

 

might be helpful:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...06/#post735902

 

Circling back to this topic again. I’m curious…how do you know if the fuse block is bad? Here’s a quick update:
- Tested voltage in the connector to the blower motor and it fluctuates from 6V to 13V; sometimes it starts at 6V then slowly increases to 12-13
- I checked all the appropriate fuses with my multimeter…beeped 100% interior and exterior (also visually validated fuses)
- I connected the blower motor to the battery and it works

As PalmettoDisco noted, and I’ve read extensively, there still could be issues with the fuse box. So is the only way to confirm by eliminating other possibilities? I was so sure the issue was with the connection from the harness to the blower motor that I snipped the plugs on both and wired it directly…nothing happened. The system sounds like it should be working, but that darn fan will not budge and it’s 100F here in TX. I’m going to just wire it straight to the battery to get through the rest of the summer. But I really want to get this working the “right” way.

Thanks in advance.

 

Have you tried swapping out the HVAC control panel? I'm not familiar with your problem specifically, but that seems like something worth ruling out. Perhaps a Nanocom could further diagnose what's happening when the system is calling for the fan but it's not coming on. There's also a troubleshooting procedure for the HVAC panel too now that I think about it. Shoot me a PM if you want to try a spare HVAC panel. I'm not sure I'm on the right track here but I have great empathy for a man without AC.

 

I haven't even thought of that...However, I'm hesitant on that end because the panel itself "seems" functional. In other words, I can change the temp (cool or warm) and the compressor kicks on. If I drop the temp, cold air "blows" through the vents when I'm driving, and the same with heat. I can hear all the clicking and motion when I change from defrost to body to feet, and when I turn the system on/off. I appreciate the empathy...it's so freaking hot.

 

Alllllllright - I'm back at it...

I cut and re-terminated the cables to the blower and resistor, checked all voltages and everything reads fine - BUT STILL NO BLOWER!

So, I purchased AC manifold gauge (I'm venturing into unknown territory here) and hooked it up this evening. Here's what I'm seeing and would love your help interpreting!!
I put descriptions below each pictures, but here's the summary:
1. Attached gauge to cold engine (image 1)
2. Turned on engine and ran for 5 mins; then turned on AC at max and lowest temp (remember, the fan does not blow) (image 2)
3. Readings after 2 minutes elapsed time (image 3)
4. Readings after 4 minutes elapsed time and after engine was turned off (image 4)


(1) Attached to system - cold engine (not running)

(2) Turned engine on & ran for 5 mins; then turned on AC at max and lowest temp

(3) Readings after 2 minutes elapsed

(4) Readings after 4 minutes elapsed & then engine off

 

Do you have 12v at the connector to the fan? No? trace back from there. Do you have the rave? trace using the wiring diagram. Voltage going in to the resistor set? What about out? BTW, it is a known defect that the the circuit board in the interior fuse box can have an open solder joint that disables the fan, there is a jumper relay fix, do a search.

 

Yes, I have 12v at the connector to the fan. I am concerned about the known defect...I've read about that. I'll probably take it in to have the AC checked and if all looks good, I might try to replace the interior fuse box.