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Adventures of Irontite and the Cracked Block

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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 07:07 PM
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Default Adventures of Irontite and the Cracked Block

Seems an appropriate point to start a new thread.

Firs part is here https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...d-right-57996/ for anyone new to this.

I found out my viscous fan spins, so Im gonna replace that and put in a new thermostat before splurging for the radiator just yet (though you'll see I probably need to soon).

In the mean time, I have some pics of the results of dried Irontite. Result on clean parts is a nice fine white layer of coating. Dexcool-poop stuff, not so much...
 
Attached Thumbnails Adventures of Irontite and the Cracked Block-2013_04_29_18_25_56.jpg   Adventures of Irontite and the Cracked Block-2013_04_29_18_28_34.jpg   Adventures of Irontite and the Cracked Block-2013_04_29_18_28_38.jpg   Adventures of Irontite and the Cracked Block-2013_04_29_18_28_57.jpg   Adventures of Irontite and the Cracked Block-2013_04_29_18_29_22.jpg  

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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 07:11 PM
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more pics
 
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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 07:12 PM
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and all for now
 
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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 08:12 PM
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What are temps before / after - if you have a scanner or Ultra Gauge ?

I would wonder if when doing something like this one would want to bypass the heater core, in case it was partially clogged. Obviously it is cheap to replace a radiator (labor wise) compared to the dash board pretzel wiggle.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 08:25 PM
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I probably should have bypassed it, but I couldnt find my extra hose.

Temps with 190 thermo (and a bunk fan clutch it turns out), water and Irontite mix per other thread:

At about night time air temps it idled, with occasional periods of throttle, at about 206-210 for 30 min.

Today I had it running for about 1 hour idling and driving to a car wash. It cooled for about 3 hours, then went to a target about 5 miles away. Temps were about 215-217 idling and neighborhood driving, 210-212 highway or with heater on, and occasional 221 spike under uphill load.
Its gonna just sit dry until I get the 180 stat. Will try to get a new viscous by then too.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 09:49 PM
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Most likely will be needing that radiator, unless you started with a new one.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 10:04 PM
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Nope, as you can see, that one had a nice coating of dexcool crud.

I guess the next report will be a little longer in coming, haha
 
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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
What are temps before / after - if you have a scanner or Ultra Gauge ?

I would wonder if when doing something like this one would want to bypass the heater core, in case it was partially clogged. Obviously it is cheap to replace a radiator (labor wise) compared to the dash board pretzel wiggle.
I bypassed the heater core when using the irontite ceramic coat product last week. I had a misfire in cylinder four, have exams the next three weeks and study for the state bar after that. No time for a HG job (or replacing a block more likely with it being number 4). Anyway, I have been really pleased with the results and was planning on replacing the rad anyway even though mine is clean. I think the trick with irontite is to make sure your coolant system is not restricted before you begin. If you do that, I think it's a good product.

Your radiator looks a little crudded up, but did it solve your cracked block issue?
 

Last edited by willrok13; Apr 30, 2013 at 12:01 AM.
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 09:00 AM
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How do you know you have a cracked block, how did you test for it and why put a sealant in the system that is only temp at best and will just plug everything, especially the radiator.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by willrok13
did it solve your cracked block issue?
Its a little early to say it solved it, but results are promising. No overheating and no pressure when opening the coolant bottle the last time.
 
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