Advice on Overheating Symptoms (possible purchase)
#1
Advice on Overheating Symptoms (possible purchase)
So I am looking at a 99 DII that the seller says has "overheating" problems.
He took it to a shop and they believed it was the water pump. They swapped it but it made no difference. They are now thinking it is a headgasket. The seller didn't want to put any more money into it, so he's selling it for cheap. I am trying to figure out from his description if this is simply a headgasket job, or if it could be a slipped liner.
Seller says it will overheat if he drives it for more than a couple blocks.
What are the symptoms of headgasket vs. slipped/cracked liner?
What is your guy's opinion?
He took it to a shop and they believed it was the water pump. They swapped it but it made no difference. They are now thinking it is a headgasket. The seller didn't want to put any more money into it, so he's selling it for cheap. I am trying to figure out from his description if this is simply a headgasket job, or if it could be a slipped liner.
Seller says it will overheat if he drives it for more than a couple blocks.
What are the symptoms of headgasket vs. slipped/cracked liner?
What is your guy's opinion?
#2
I think largely the symptoms could be same based on severity. Head gasket leaks can be very deceiving from my experience. On my truck, they started weeping, no internal leaking. You'll mysteriously notice coolant disappearing but not know where. Frequent topping off and purging of air from the system. When I had a known leak, in this case head gasket my temp gauge wouldn't start rising until over 45 mph or so, but this was when I was limping the truck home. I think the same sort of symptoms could be present with a bad thermostat. Liners will tick.
I would walk away until it is diagnosed or unless he's selling for cheap.
I would walk away until it is diagnosed or unless he's selling for cheap.
#3
Slipping liner normally makes ticking sound that starts when warmed up.
Head gasket parts like $300, plus $200 for machine shop, plus two weekends with shop inbetween. Or $1700 - $2400 indy shop.
$50 chemical shop test for exhaust gas in coolant, which they should have done. A $50 test kit does maybe 15 tests. Tests water in coolant jug for combustion gas.
Could also be stuck thermostat or completely clogged radiator.
Head gasket parts like $300, plus $200 for machine shop, plus two weekends with shop inbetween. Or $1700 - $2400 indy shop.
$50 chemical shop test for exhaust gas in coolant, which they should have done. A $50 test kit does maybe 15 tests. Tests water in coolant jug for combustion gas.
Could also be stuck thermostat or completely clogged radiator.
#4
#5
Chemical test strips are perfect. This is a super easy way of confirming it isn't something simple like trapped air, fan that isn't turning on, bad thermostat, water pump belt routed backwards (or maybe that's a DI thing....)
Also ticking with a slipped liner. Now it was my impression that they all sort of tick from the lifters, is the liner ticking worse? louder? different location?
Thanks for the tips guys. It is cheap, but a headgasket job is fine, a 4k engine rebuild isn't worth it.
Also ticking with a slipped liner. Now it was my impression that they all sort of tick from the lifters, is the liner ticking worse? louder? different location?
Thanks for the tips guys. It is cheap, but a headgasket job is fine, a 4k engine rebuild isn't worth it.
#6
Could you please describe using the Chemical Test strips to test for combustion gasses? You said, "This is a super easy way of confirming it isn't something simple like trapped air, fan that isn't turning on, bad thermostat, water pump belt routed backwards (or maybe that's a DI thing....)"
How would you use the test strips and how would you read the results?
How would you use the test strips and how would you read the results?
#7
Liner tick is the secret trademark left by engineer Hermann "Deep Fried" Fritz, ex-Mercedes guy, who wanted everything to sound like a diesel. It is louder than lifter noise. Belt route can be wrong on any of them. Chemical test I was mentioning is not the coolant pH strips, but a liquid that changes color when exhaust gas is present. Can do many tests.. See You can also find videos of actual test with Google. Fan not turning on, or fan clutch that is wimpy only impact slow speed, at 50 mph you can take the fan off. I did with a failing water pump to keep it from going into the radiator. Drove 35 miles home. Just don't stop at the drive thru.
There is a write up in tech section of pinning liners.
There is a write up in tech section of pinning liners.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 08-15-2012 at 02:17 PM.
#8
Could you please describe using the Chemical Test strips to test for combustion gasses? You said, "This is a super easy way of confirming it isn't something simple like trapped air, fan that isn't turning on, bad thermostat, water pump belt routed backwards (or maybe that's a DI thing....)"
How would you use the test strips and how would you read the results?
How would you use the test strips and how would you read the results?
Looks like Napa sells a kit: NAPA AUTO PARTS
My guess is that you take some coolant out of the overflow bottle. Rub a test strip in it, and if it turns a specific color it has detected the presence of exhaust gas in the coolant.
#10
I will put my spoon in your plate, as I experienced the same picture from the seller :
The lower radiator hose is wrong. Collapses at higher rpm because of pump suction. The pump inlet hose MUST have a stiffener coil inside.
I replaced such hose with a solid pipe, bye bye overheating problem. Perhaps will work for you.
Edited - added ---> https://landroverforums.com/forum/ge...chering-51363/
Last edited by Externet; 08-20-2012 at 10:28 AM. Reason: Added link