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After motor swap DII wont start

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Old 07-24-2017, 10:23 AM
d.a.r.y.l's Avatar
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Default After motor swap DII wont start

It's a long story but I'll try to make it somewhat short. Have DII with blown head gaskets. After pulling heads found two slipped liners. Decision was made to replace motor. Found one with 89k miles decent price and very clean both top and bottom. Replaced valve cover, oil pan gaskets and new water pump. Everything for fuel distribution was retained from original motor. New 8mm wires Champion plugs new coil packs. Install replacement motor turns over good but does not fire. Check the usual suspects and have good fuel pressure at rails strong spark at plug wires and fuel is making it to cylinders. Check timing and plug wiring everything is correct. Replaced CPS and TPS no joy. This went on for three days with no fire even with starting fluid,which I don't like to do. Pulled valve covers left side is getting oil right side is not. Oil pump had been replaced befor we installed the motor so that's not the culprit. Talked to original owner of vehicle that the replacement motor came out of and found out that the DII was rearended which resulted in the vehicle flipping over and landing on it's side. Is it possible that the accident resulted in some internal damage to the motor? The motor is back out and waiting for another replacement motor. I don't want the same thing to happen again so did we miss anything in the swap? Thanks for any help and I'll try to answer any questions to the best of my knowledge. Work is being done by an indy.shop. D*
 
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Old 07-24-2017, 10:42 AM
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How about the timing? Did you touch the timing chain?
 
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Old 07-24-2017, 11:09 AM
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Timing chain was one of the first things inspected and in good condition and indexed correctly according to indy. shop that is doing work. They have worked on this and other Rovers for at least 15 years. D*
 
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Old 07-24-2017, 03:24 PM
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You seem to have checked everything so the engine not firing is puzzling for sure. I doubt a rear collision could have caused internal engine damage.

Regarding the oiling issue - just cranking the engine is not enough RPM to create sufficient pressure to turn off the oil light, and probably not enough to send much lubrication to the valve train so make sure to use assembly lube on the lifters, rockers and push rods.

If you had the heads apart I would check the rocker shaft stand on the front right side and make sure it's not blocking the oil feed hole in the head.
 
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Old 07-24-2017, 04:31 PM
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The valve cover gaskets were replaced but nothing else done to the heads. Would bypassing the throttle body heater cause this issue? I guess I'm grasping at straws now. D*
 
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Old 07-24-2017, 06:12 PM
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double check the immobilizer button on the firewall?
 
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Old 07-24-2017, 06:46 PM
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That was the first or second thing that we checked Dave. The second replacement motor arrived today and it looks cleaner on the out side than the one that we couldn't get to run. A little valve cover leak on the passenger side but other than that it looks like a good one. 82k on this motor. The process will start anew in the morning. D*
 
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Old 07-25-2017, 03:35 AM
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Did your mechanic check compression? And, just because there is fuel pressure at the rails, doesn't necessarily mean the injectors are firing. Did he check to see if the injectors were clicking/firing off. I'm surprised your mechanic didn't pull the plugs to verify lean or rich conditions.

Kind of "all water under the bridge", since the engine is out now.

Good luck, with next one.

Brian.
 
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Old 07-25-2017, 07:12 AM
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Brian, He did check the injectors and they were firing as they should. Compression checked low for my satisfaction at 120lbs on all cylinders. I thought that was strange for all of them to be exactly the same. D*
 
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Old 07-25-2017, 10:57 AM
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Ground straps all in place?
 


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