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alarm keeps going off

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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 08:48 PM
  #11  
cappedup's Avatar
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From: Putnam county. NY.
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Originally Posted by RawFaith
Honestly we don't even use the "remote key" as it self, just lock and unlock manually.
Now, our keys don't have a chip? ( inside that connects of to the computer of the truck to get it started?)
Nope. The only thing electrickery in the fobs is the central locking. Nothing that talks to a computer or anything.

It's as simple as a key blade with some notches cut out of it.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 08:53 PM
  #12  
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From: San Diego, CA
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Almost sounds like you have faulty horn buttons. Seen horn buttons cause the horn to go off randomly and sometimes stick on.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 09:20 PM
  #13  
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Rock Crawling
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Originally Posted by BritishautoworksSD
Almost sounds like you have faulty horn buttons. Seen horn buttons cause the horn to go off randomly and sometimes stick on.
hmmm didn't think about that one....but the lights going off?? I'm almost positive is the alarm.

So far no issues YET!!!

Will try to pull the battery out of the key. when we got the truck only the locking bottom was working so we never messed with it...
 
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 09:23 PM
  #14  
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From: Longview, Texas
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Originally Posted by RawFaith
Honestly we don't even use the "remote key" as it self, just lock and unlock manually.
Now, our keys don't have a chip? ( inside that connects of to the computer of the truck to get it started?)
No. The keys don't have a chip. A plain old metal key will do the job. That's what I use.

The remote keys just signal the alarm system to arm or disarm and lock or unlock the doors.

Sorry... Just saw I was a Johnny come lately.
 

Last edited by Charlie_V; Mar 28, 2016 at 09:40 PM.
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 09:27 PM
  #15  
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From: San Diego, CA
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Any Land Rover shop with an Autologic or T4 can see the alarm trigger history. The body control unit stores this information and is very helpful. Maybe worth a diagnostic fee for this info
 
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 11:28 PM
  #16  
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From: Coastal Georgia
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The only thing electrickery in the fobs is the central locking. Nothing that talks to a computer or anything.

The remote keys just signal the alarm system to arm or disarm and lock or unlock the doors.
The alarm system is a bit more complex than suggested and you must be some of the fortunate ones blessed by the Rover Gods. Some folks haven't been so lucky because the remotes do/can interface with the BCU for mobilisation to allow starting. The BCU has many programmable options to en/disable many of the anti-theft system options.

Handset and receiver
The handset is incorporated in the key. It uses coded radio frequency signals to lock, unlock and super lock the vehicle
remotely with a range of up to 10 metres (33 ft). The handset also mobilises the vehicle by transmitting a
remobilisation signal when the handset is within range of the passive remobilisation exciter coil.

Passive remobilisation exciter coil
The passive remobilisation exciter coil consists of a coil around the steering column lock. The coil energises to create
a magnetic field when the ignition is switched to position II.
This coil activates the handset initiating the mobilisation of the vehicle.
Input/Output
The input to the passive remobilisation exciter coil from the BCU is a 12 volts 125 kHz sinewave. The passive
remobilisation exciter coil also receives an ignition controlled power supply via fuse 20 (15 amperes) located in the
engine compartment fuse box. On receiving these signals, a magnetic field is generated which activates the handset
to produce a remobilisation signal. This remobilisation signal is transmitted to the remote receiver and onto the BCU
to allow the engine to start.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 11:37 PM
  #17  
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From: Longview, Texas
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Good grief I didn't know it did all that. I just get excited when mine unlocks and doesn't start honking.

Not having a remote (that is programmed) I do live in fear of a superlock event.

When I had a broken driver door handle I was able to arm and disarm, lock and unlock, all with a screwdriver (I remember clearly because I locked myself out and armed the alarm, both inadvertently) in the middle of the fix. Also, when I accidentally locked and activated the alarm, causing the horn to honk, I was able to deactivate it with the screwdriver.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 08:39 AM
  #18  
RawFaith's Avatar
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Rock Crawling
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Geeeee
I'm freaking out now!
How much will the stealership want for a key !?
 
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 09:58 AM
  #19  
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From: Staten Island, NY
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I don't have a remote fob at all. My alarm works when I lock and unlock the driver's door with one of these: 2 Land Rover Discovery Range Rover Key Blanks 89 04 | eBay
 
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 10:02 AM
  #20  
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Rock Crawling
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Originally Posted by OffroadFrance
Had exactly the same on my 2000 V8 HSE about 14 years ago whilst on holiday in France. Sometimes it's an LR computer glitch and sometimes local EMF or mobile phone signal interference, usually your own phone in the truck. Disconnect the battery for 30 minutes minimum or alternatively get a good quality code reader and find the system problem codes.

Even my TD5 still occasionally acts up so I turn off the phone, get out and lock up the truck, wait 3 minutes then open it again and bingo all's well and ready to go. The worst areas seem to be outside X-ray suites in hospitals which are well known for screwing up remote systems due to heavy EMF.

PS wtf is god by the way? Another mythical figure I assume.
hmmm ...
interesting facts, actually just got a knee injury and had been to some labs and hospitals between x-rays, MRIs and physical therapy....perhaps have something to do....but why when getting home?

PS: What is GOD? that is a very good question, if that is an intellectually honest one in the pursuit of true. BTW assumptions can be very dangerous...
 
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