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Aligning steering wheel with front tires?

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  #11  
Old 10-28-2012, 01:00 PM
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No need to replace the rear drive shaft, the roto-flex is a strong part of that shaft.
 
  #12  
Old 10-28-2012, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Disco Mike
No need to replace the rear drive shaft, the roto-flex is a strong part of that shaft.
I always thought the rubber roto-flex was prone to failure like it was on the early D1 models? I saw a shredded roto-flex that was held up on the wall at DAP Enterprise as an example of what can happen.

And thanks very much LRSilver!!!! Youve always been very supportive and patient and always full of info
 
  #13  
Old 10-28-2012, 01:42 PM
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So have you ever seen a blown u-joint nailed to the wall that shows what happens to them.
I have replace one roto-flex at around 85,000 mile after running more trails then most can dream about.
Sure they can fail, but it will take a week or more of driving for them to let loose compared to a u-joint failure that will give you little or no warning.
 
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Old 10-28-2012, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Disco Mike
So have you ever seen a blown u-joint nailed to the wall that shows what happens to them.
I have replace one roto-flex at around 85,000 mile after running more trails then most can dream about.
Sure they can fail, but it will take a week or more of driving for them to let loose compared to a u-joint failure that will give you little or no warning.

Honestly did not know that Mike. I know that the rear shaft on my former 98 D1 failed and afew chunks of the shaft and the rear most u-joint were missing.... well if I keep the roto-flex, i should at least inspect it. What should I look for? Just signs of tearing/cracking in the rubber?
 
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Old 10-28-2012, 01:57 PM
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You look for vertical cracks between the 6 bolts. They normally hold up for a go 80,000 miles then spend 10 minutes and replace it for another 80,000 miles. By the way, they will easily handle up to a 3" lift.
 
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Old 10-28-2012, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Disco Mike
You look for vertical cracks between the 6 bolts. They normally hold up for a go 80,000 miles then spend 10 minutes and replace it for another 80,000 miles. By the way, they will easily handle up to a 3" lift.
Well my Disco has 130K and I haven't inspected the roto-flex yet, but ill add that to my list, and thanks for the tip regarding its compatibility with a 3" lift!!!! Im still very interested in the lift, but that will have to wait.
 
  #17  
Old 10-28-2012, 04:48 PM
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Not sure if you resolved the steering wheel issue. I replaced my tie rod ends and thought i had the steering wheel straight before removing and replacing them. I guess i did not as my steering wheel was way off. I took it to an alignment shop and am good to go again,$80. Check to see if any ball joints have been replaced recently. BTW that is a gorgeous Disco, that is my favorite color combo. Congrats!
 
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:53 PM
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Rule number one, diagnose the cel. Then do a regular oil change. Royal purple and a non OEM oil filter are just snake oil. You are paying the damn thing off. Use your head and fix what goes wrong first. Yes the front driveshaft can go but inspection first.
 
  #19  
Old 10-28-2012, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Rovin4life
Rule number one, diagnose the cel. Then do a regular oil change. Royal purple and a non OEM oil filter are just snake oil. You are paying the damn thing off. Use your head and fix what goes wrong first. Yes the front driveshaft can go but inspection first.
I've already told him about the snake oil, he's dead set on wasting his money on over priced motor oil and oil filters.
Each to their own right?
You're a Rover tech, have you ever seen a advantage to where over priced fluids and filters did any good?
 
  #20  
Old 10-28-2012, 10:13 PM
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I vote to keep the rotoflex, it's very much easier to identify a worn rotoflex than a worn u-joint.
 


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