I know, I have a lot of questions. But I'm a sponge, and this thing is new to me, and I want more knowledge.

The Rave manual calls for toe to be set something like 30 minutes of angle toed OUT. Or was that seconds. Anyway, I have always set toe using a tape, and over the course of over 65 jeeps (yeah, I know I have a problem) I have always toed in 1/16 to 1/8". Here is a post I found digging for info:

" I believe the toe setting on these things is positive or almost zero, can't remember, but personally...l set my toe on both of my rovers at about a 1/16 toe-in (negative) and they don't "hunt" as much as when they are toed at zero. And, while toed at 1/16...when you brake hard, weight of the vehicle is applied to the front end...compressing suspension...causing the toe to change ever so slight to zero. Disclaimer, these are my preferences and in no way should you do this unless you are capable of understanding suspensions and steering components."

My question then, is this. How do most of you set your toe for normal driving? I'm running 255/70/18 tires, and the rule of thumb I have always used is the taller the tire, the more toe (always in). Thank you in advance for your input.

 

No takers?

 

I've already explained my preference...lol.

But, seriously...after forty years of being a mechanic...this is the first vehicle I've ever owned that was toed positive (out). Supposedly. I've never researched this topic to much (on Dll), and do what I do...and get the results I like. Only makes sense to me...that a vehicle wants to center itself in a lane or steer to center, especially if one steering tire gets less traction. Why would you want it to steer into opposing traffic or ditch?

Brian.

 

I believe those were your words. I agree, but wanted others take on the Rave recommendation vs what they do in reality. Thank you.

 

I'm not sure what the rave says, but AllData reports this.
-.10 +/-.10 AKA set it to 0 and call it a day




Camber angle
Front, up to VIN 2A 754807 .................... -10' ±30'
Front, from VIN 2A 754808 .................... +20' ±30'
Rear .................... -10' ±30'
Cross camber, front - rear .................... 45' Maximum

Caster angle .................... 3°45' ±45'
Cross caster .................... 1° Maximum
Toe-out, front .................... -0°10' ±0°10' total
Toe-in, rear .................... +0°5' ±0°15' total
Thrust angle .................... 0° ±20'
Swivel pin inclination .................... 13°11'

 

I would argue that at that measurement no human is going to notice in a D2 if that toe is in or out.
You WILL notice zero toe in just about any car - its called tramlining

When I used to autocross, the consensus was toe out to improve corning. I ran toe in for DD, then went full negative camber at the course which in turn gave me the opposite amount of toe out.
Worked like a charm.