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If you need some Tundra color from a vehicle, I can ship some to you, for the color match. I've cut a few places in the bins for power, and have saved the cutouts specifically for color matching.
I made the mistake of taping a note (wiring diagram) to my steering wheel, using the Yellow super delicate tape, and though it was only on their half an hour, it pulled up some of the color. Seriously did not expect that.
I was installing the LT230 transfer case sight glass and noticed the website says you can tighten with 3/4 open-end wrench and the instructions don't specify a tool but found that I needed to use a 1-1/8 wrench; hope that helps someone else!
I was installing the LT230 transfer case sight glass and noticed the website says you can tighten with 3/4 open-end wrench and the instructions don't specify a tool but found that I needed to use a 1-1/8 wrench; hope that helps someone else!
Whoops, found another placeholder number, thanks for letting me know. Fixed!
I installed the coil relocation kit and after driving a few miles, I get misfires on #4 & #7 at the same time. Coincidentally the connectors on the coils for #4 & #7 are closest to the firewall, where the vertical space is very limited. The connectors get squished by the hood a bit, and I see marks on the hood and well as on the rubber of the connectors. I suspect that sparks unload on the hood instead of the plug. A rubber pad came with kit, so I assume this is intended for avoiding this problem. The problem with the pad is that it gets squeezed as well. How to address this problem a different way? Drill/dremel holes into the hood reinforcement to give it more space? Lower the coils, but I don't know if there is enough space? Anyone else having the same problem?
The source of the misfires could be different, since I replaced the engine, but #4 & #7 at the same time where that rubbing of the connectors occurs is my first suspicion.
Edit: Investigated further and I think probability is 99% that my first suspicion is the problem. The rubber gave way due to vibrations and heat. Metal scratched on the hood until the paint got scraped off. Then sparks unloaded into the hood.
Last edited by Discorama; Jun 15, 2023 at 04:59 PM.
Yes, did you install the rubber insulator provided? Of our 5 development trucks we had one that did this. I suspect there is some variation in hood clearance due to frame, motor mounts, engine tolerances, and body tolerances. We tested two solutions, spacing the hood up at the rear which does work, and using the rubber insulator which also works. Spacing the hood up looks a little funny because there is a visible gap at the fenders.
Of course I considered other options, but there are just limited space choices that could use the factory spark plug wires. And ultimately I did not think most people would be interested in clearancing their hood.
Give the insulator a try, or you can ultimately return it if you aren't happy with any of those.
Yes, I assume there are tolerances I engine height. I didn't use the rubber insulator because space is so tight. If I use it the insulator will get rubbed through too, because the crimp terminals push against the hood. I am in the process to drilling cutouts and then place the insulator on. It's not nice to do this, but this is the easiest solution retaining the relocation bracket and standard wires.
