Another Crank/No-start Issue
#1
Another Crank/No-start Issue
Hi. I have been researching this forum and everything else I could find for weeks, to try to figure out how to fix my non-starting 2003 Discovery. First, I should say this: I have ZERO experience with auto repairs. Sending her out like I've always done in the past just isn't an option right now.
Several weeks ago, I had driven the truck for 3 short round-trips one evening. The next afternoon, she wouldn't start. All the lights come on, she cranks and cranks, but will not start. I had not noticed anything unusual prior to this. Added gas, just in case, as the light had come on the previous eve- no dice. After MANY tries, I DID get her started several days later- drove around for just a few minutes- everything was perfectly fine. Have not gotten her started again.
The inertia switch hasn't been tripped
The fuses and relays seemed to be fine
The hazards didn't come on; no alarm-related symptoms
(My keyfob buttons broke a long time ago- so I've always used my key to lock the drivers door when I needed to. I imagine the keyfob battery IS dead now- but I'm assuming that wouldn't cause this problem???) I've received a new keyfob case, but don't have the micro-switches or battery yet.
I got the fuel pump uncovered so my neighbor could test it- first was told it WAS getting power fine, then told that it wasn't getting ENOUGH power (only 5 volts). He felt like it was a fuel issue, not a spark issue. The battery died a couple times throughout all of this- and the second time it wouldn't hold a charge.
I've been delivered a new battery, a couple new relays (just in case), and the infamous crankshaft position sensor. However, I've been sick in bed so NONE of those things have been installed. I am hoping to be able to get back to my "experiment" in the next few days...
I'm thinking that if these things don't work- have the power to the fuel pump tested again? If it's still low, assume a bad connection somewhere (rather than a bad pump)? Am I going about this in a semi-sensible fashion?
Thank you for any assistance that you can provide.
Several weeks ago, I had driven the truck for 3 short round-trips one evening. The next afternoon, she wouldn't start. All the lights come on, she cranks and cranks, but will not start. I had not noticed anything unusual prior to this. Added gas, just in case, as the light had come on the previous eve- no dice. After MANY tries, I DID get her started several days later- drove around for just a few minutes- everything was perfectly fine. Have not gotten her started again.
The inertia switch hasn't been tripped
The fuses and relays seemed to be fine
The hazards didn't come on; no alarm-related symptoms
(My keyfob buttons broke a long time ago- so I've always used my key to lock the drivers door when I needed to. I imagine the keyfob battery IS dead now- but I'm assuming that wouldn't cause this problem???) I've received a new keyfob case, but don't have the micro-switches or battery yet.
I got the fuel pump uncovered so my neighbor could test it- first was told it WAS getting power fine, then told that it wasn't getting ENOUGH power (only 5 volts). He felt like it was a fuel issue, not a spark issue. The battery died a couple times throughout all of this- and the second time it wouldn't hold a charge.
I've been delivered a new battery, a couple new relays (just in case), and the infamous crankshaft position sensor. However, I've been sick in bed so NONE of those things have been installed. I am hoping to be able to get back to my "experiment" in the next few days...
I'm thinking that if these things don't work- have the power to the fuel pump tested again? If it's still low, assume a bad connection somewhere (rather than a bad pump)? Am I going about this in a semi-sensible fashion?
Thank you for any assistance that you can provide.
#2
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: St. Clair County, Michigan
Posts: 4,567
Received 1,167 Likes
on
842 Posts
You need to diagnose it more. Check the spark, don't just assume it has it. Did the fuel pump run while cranking engine...if so...you need to check it for pressure. If you don't have spark or fuel pump running, could be crank sensor.
And yes...do all of this with a fully charged battery and plenty of fuel in tank.
Since it seems to be intermittent, my off the cuff guess would be crank sensor or harness.
Good luck.
Brian.
And yes...do all of this with a fully charged battery and plenty of fuel in tank.
Since it seems to be intermittent, my off the cuff guess would be crank sensor or harness.
Good luck.
Brian.
#3
#4
CPS will act up before they totally go out usually. After Hurricane Harvey & all the deep water I drove thru a few days after it would start up, but idle funny. It actually popped a CPS code so I knew it was on it’s way out.
Abran sent me a good spare as I couldn’t get anything locally due to the flooding. I then took my INOP unit in for warranty (Thanks Auto Zone), but instead of a Bosch I got a generic CPS. I then made Abrans unit my tested good spare. I was in Kemah with the Mrs. and my D2 refused to start. I knew what it was immediately, but I did check the fuel pump relay just in case. I let it cool down a bit & when I tried it fired right up. I had zero issues on the trip home. I slapped in Abran’s Bosch spare & was good to go again. I then took the generic back for warranty & this time I got a Bosch unit.
I highly recommend carrying a spare CPS, a 1/4 7mm & 8mm socket paired to a 1/4 ratchet, just in case you need to swap it out on the side of the road or parking lot. On my 99 D2 it takes me maybe 15min from start to finish. Hardest part is plugging it back in lol.
Abran sent me a good spare as I couldn’t get anything locally due to the flooding. I then took my INOP unit in for warranty (Thanks Auto Zone), but instead of a Bosch I got a generic CPS. I then made Abrans unit my tested good spare. I was in Kemah with the Mrs. and my D2 refused to start. I knew what it was immediately, but I did check the fuel pump relay just in case. I let it cool down a bit & when I tried it fired right up. I had zero issues on the trip home. I slapped in Abran’s Bosch spare & was good to go again. I then took the generic back for warranty & this time I got a Bosch unit.
I highly recommend carrying a spare CPS, a 1/4 7mm & 8mm socket paired to a 1/4 ratchet, just in case you need to swap it out on the side of the road or parking lot. On my 99 D2 it takes me maybe 15min from start to finish. Hardest part is plugging it back in lol.
#5
CPS will act up before they totally go out usually. After Hurricane Harvey & all the deep water I drove thru a few days after it would start up, but idle funny. It actually popped a CPS code so I knew it was on it’s way out.
Abran sent me a good spare as I couldn’t get anything locally due to the flooding. I then took my INOP unit in for warranty (Thanks Auto Zone), but instead of a Bosch I got a generic CPS. I then made Abrans unit my tested good spare. I was in Kemah with the Mrs. and my D2 refused to start. I knew what it was immediately, but I did check the fuel pump relay just in case. I let it cool down a bit & when I tried it fired right up. I had zero issues on the trip home. I slapped in Abran’s Bosch spare & was good to go again. I then took the generic back for warranty & this time I got a Bosch unit.
I highly recommend carrying a spare CPS, a 1/4 7mm & 8mm socket paired to a 1/4 ratchet, just in case you need to swap it out on the side of the road or parking lot. On my 99 D2 it takes me maybe 15min from start to finish. Hardest part is plugging it back in lol.
Abran sent me a good spare as I couldn’t get anything locally due to the flooding. I then took my INOP unit in for warranty (Thanks Auto Zone), but instead of a Bosch I got a generic CPS. I then made Abrans unit my tested good spare. I was in Kemah with the Mrs. and my D2 refused to start. I knew what it was immediately, but I did check the fuel pump relay just in case. I let it cool down a bit & when I tried it fired right up. I had zero issues on the trip home. I slapped in Abran’s Bosch spare & was good to go again. I then took the generic back for warranty & this time I got a Bosch unit.
I highly recommend carrying a spare CPS, a 1/4 7mm & 8mm socket paired to a 1/4 ratchet, just in case you need to swap it out on the side of the road or parking lot. On my 99 D2 it takes me maybe 15min from start to finish. Hardest part is plugging it back in lol.
The following users liked this post:
Best4x4 (06-16-2018)
#6
I'm lazy. On any vehicle that cranks but doesn't start for me I spray starter fluid into the air filter intake or up the MAF.
If the vehicle briefly cranks and starts on the starter fluid, and dies when that spray of starter fluid is used up, then I know I have a fuel issue (e.g. fuel pump, relay, alarm, clog, hole in a fuel rail, dead fuel injectors, bad fuse, etc.).
If the vehicle doesn't start even with the starting fluid, then I know that I have a spark issue (e.g. CPS, bad coil packs, failed or unplugged spark plug wires, bad ground, fouled spark plugs, etc.).
Narrows down what I think that I need to check.
If the vehicle briefly cranks and starts on the starter fluid, and dies when that spray of starter fluid is used up, then I know I have a fuel issue (e.g. fuel pump, relay, alarm, clog, hole in a fuel rail, dead fuel injectors, bad fuse, etc.).
If the vehicle doesn't start even with the starting fluid, then I know that I have a spark issue (e.g. CPS, bad coil packs, failed or unplugged spark plug wires, bad ground, fouled spark plugs, etc.).
Narrows down what I think that I need to check.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
DUBLJDISCO2
Range Rover L322 (3rd Gen)
1
08-09-2018 08:44 AM