Yes, I believe that some of the higher-end diagnostic computers can supply XYZ test info. You may have to go to a Rover specialist shop to get that done.

As risky as it sounds, I would buy a used XYZ switch for $100 from one of our forum sellers like Paul Grant or abram before I would ever spend the really big money on a new one. Depending on how much flexibility you have, meaning whether or not your truck is a daily driver, you could also remove the XYZ switch take it apart and try to repair it. There are other threads on this forum describing that. You have to drill out a handful of rivets holding the XYZ switch together and then once your work is done you put it back together with some small screws and I lock nuts that you can buy local big box hardware store.

 

Connector locking tab on top as mounted to side of trans. Harness socket is held to side of trans with a small bracket/tab at bottom of connector. It was easier for me to release the whole plug from side of trans and the disconnect. I removed switch before connector because access was the better.

Did you try loosening switch and adjust? Your gear position indications are one test of deadness. Prior to install of my used switch tried to find a good way to test with a meter before install, came up empty handed.

+1 on a used switch with at least a 30 day warranty. Been lead to believe the ones with the light colored plastic cover have better internal switches and last longer. One coming off my '04 was a black one with junk slider type switches inside.
......

 

Number9 nailed it; it's much, much easier to unplug the connector if you first remove the switch from the shaft and then slide the connector off the bracket on which it is mounted to the trans.

See this post for more info.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...50/#post491521

 

Must have been one of threads I read prior to start. Delayed thanks to you mln01.
......

 

whats wrong, brings back flashbacks of that one night in band camp?

There is a writeup somewhere for cleaning and lubricating the XYZ switch if you dont want to replace it because of financial reasons.

Personally, I don't think this is an XYZ switch problem. Based on your list of concerns, I would say you have wires shorted together somewhere.

 

Thanks everyone for their continued support on this.

Here's the update.

+ Removed XYZ switch
+ Reinstalled per previously posted instructions from the RAVE CD.
+ Moved switch through range of motion to "loosen" any interior buildup.

Current status:

+ Brake lights stay on when power is off.
+ Depressing foot onto brake prior to inserting ignition key lights up the gauge console.
+ Gear shift is in park, the solenoid is still preventing it from shifting.
+ Gear indicator on the dashboard and the gear shift indicate Neutral.
+ Car no longer starts.

Thoughts/questions/other comments appreciated.

A previous post suggested a grounding issue with the wiring. Suggestions on how to test for that or at least where to start?

 

Further update:

If the linkage is adjusted, the gear indicator lights no longer function but the vehicle can be started.

 

Fuse 25 should be one that powers brake lights. When pulling fuses before and lights went off did that also prevent the panel light when pedal depressed.

What do the brake light do when engine running, one all the time or normal operation? Still having to release brake to stop engine?

Does sound like some wiring issues.
......

 

That says wiring.
you are looking for 2-4 wires shorted together somewhere between the brake pedal and the shifter interlock.

Try the kick panel in the driver footwell.

 

Fuses:

Pulled every fuse in the fuse box under the steering wheel, as well as in the engine compartment and cannot get the brake lights to shut off. They are on when the car is running as well.

Brake to kill engine:

If the brake is depressed when the ignition is turned off, the engine does not stop until the brake is released.
If the brake is NOT depressed when the ignition is turned off, the engine stops as normal.

I'll start the search for exposed/shorted wires.

Thanks for the assistance...