..:: UPDATE ::..

Hello Roverers! ...just to let y'all know that I've been unable to troubleshoot further, but hopefully will get back to it this weekend.

Things have worsened; besides the persistent P1590 & P0305, more codes have surfaced in the past month or so (P0300 - Excess emissions level of misfire detected on more than one cylinder; P0305 - Excess emissions level of misfire detected on cylinder #5; P1300 - Catalyst damaging level of misfire on more than one cylinder; P1319 - Misfire detected with low fuel level; P0130 - Front sensor LH bank stoichiometric ratio outside operating band; P0306 - Excess emissions level of misfire detected on cylinder #6; P0301 - Excess emissions level of misfire detected on cylinder #1; and P0307 - Excess emissions level of misfire detected on cylinder #7; P1590 - ABS rough road signal circuit malfunction. Hardware is OK, but SLABS ECU is sending an error signal). Please note that RAVE also describe P0301, P0305, P0306 & P0307 as 'Injector X excess emissions/catalyst damaging level of misfire".

Rough idling and shakiness is more constant while driving or at a stop; low acceleration from stop with a lot trembling and frequent backfiring which have come up within the past week, so things are definitely getting worse. Steering pump may be starting to give up since I've been hearing a whining lately, but will need to look into it further. Also, a couple days back I had to top off the coolant with a pretty good amount, but I see no coolant leaks or rare odors, so I'll just keep monitoring for it.

My plan this upcoming weekend will be to replace upper intake gasket which has been pretty banged up from recent upper intake removals; relocate coil-packs with EXTINCT's kit; swap all plugs & wires from right bank to left and go from there; I feel last time I removed that upper intake I did not do a good job putting it back correctly, so possible reason for all these new codes to pop up, when only P0305 was the persistent one. I also feel left cat was already compromised before this ordeal, but will try to a least to clear most codes before digging deeper and having to consider replacing the cat down the road.

I'll keep y'all posted, have a great & safe week Rovering!

 

- Order your PCV valve and make that swap. Generally speaking, anything that you know is wrong should be fixed before proceeding with troubleshooting. You never know when that thing you are putting off might be contributing to the problem you are trying to solve. (This is a general troubleshooting principle. I don't really think your PCV is your problem here, so go ahead with your other troubleshooting.)
- You have a bunch of codes there; several of them might all be solved by solving P0305. Keep your focus.
- You didn't mention if you cleaned plug 5 before you installed it into cyl 6. That could cause your P0306 if you didn't.
- What is the state of your battery/charging system? A bad state of charge can cause spurious codes. If either are suspect then you might have meaningless mystery codes.
- Get organized when you do your compression test. Pull all of your plugs and track which cyl they are from. You can learn much from reading your plugs...as you saw looking at 5&6. An old school way to organize them is to poke 8 holes in a piece of cardboard and mark the holes 1-8, then put your plugs in the corresponding hole as you pull them. When you run the compression test write down each measurement. Looking at the measurements along with the plug from that cyl can tell you stuff.
- Running the comp test: 4 or 5 puffs - same for every cyl so that you can compare apples to apples - record the immediate reading. If your tester supports a leakdown test, measure that too. For all of this you are looking for consistency and correlation from cyl to cyl as much as you are looking for any absolute reading.

 

P1590 is a code that covers a lot of errors in the SLABS. You need to read the ABS codes to find out exactly what is causing that one.

 

Thanks for your input H20nSnow!

"- Order your PCV valve and make that swap" >>> YUP, I TOTALLY FORGOT ABOUT IT DURING LAST UPDATE WRITE-UP, THANKS FOR REMINDING ME.

"- You have a bunch of codes there; several of them might all be solved by solving P0305. Keep your focus." >>> AND FINGERS CROSSED AS WELL ;-]#

"- You didn't mention if you cleaned plug 5 before you installed it into cyl 6. That could cause your P0306 if you didn't." >>> I DID NOT, BUT WILL DO SO AS NECESSARY NEXT TIME.

"- What is the state of your battery/charging system?" >>> AS PER ADVANCE AUTO PARTS TEST, THE BATTERY NEEDS REPLACING; TEST WAS DONE MANY MONTHS AGO BUT I HAVEN'T HAD ANY STARTING ISSUES SINCE, SO HAVE NOT REPLACED IT YET; THERE'S ALSO A CLICKING NOISE COMING FROM UNDER DASH FUSE BOX, AND I READ AT SOME POINT THAT IT MAY BE BAD-BATTERY-RELATED; I DO HAVE A HARD TIME LOCKING AND UNLOCKING DOOR WITH INSIDE SWITCH OR USING KEY ON DRIVER DOOR; SO THESE MIGHT BE INDICATORS OF BATTERY/ELECTRICAL ISSUES DUE TO POOR BATTERY, WHICH HAVE BEEN THERE BEFORE THESE CODES STARTED TO APPEARED.

I WAS NOT PLANNING ON RUNNING THE COMPRESSION TEST UNTIL I REPLACED THE UPPER INTAKE GASKET AND RELOCATE THE COILS AND CONFIRM WHICH CODES REAPPEARED; BUT FOR SURE I'LL BE RUNNING THE COMPRESSION TEST AND WILL TAKE NOTE OF YOUR RECOMMENDATIONS AS WELL, THANKS. UNFORTUNATELY THE TESTER I'M GETTING FROM AUTOZONE DOES NOT SUPPORT LEAKDOWN TEST.

Thanks again for your input, greatly appreciated!

 

thanks MOLLUSC for pointing it out ... yes I'm aware of it ...I was not going to add it to the update, but heck it was already there ;-]#

 

All electronic device tests/troubleshooting are invalid with unknown or inadequate power supply. Fix your battery/charging system before any more testing of anything to do with your ECM/BCM/SLABS/etc. You are getting uncertain results.

As for your compression test, you can wait, but you don't have to. Compression tests have nothing to do with anything else you are talking about. And worse, it might tell you that you have a bigger problem to deal with that would make all of the other things moot. (Let's hope not)

 

.:: UPDATE ::..

Hello Roverers! ...even though parts already arrived, unfortunately plan to relocate coil packs and replace upper intake gasket this weekend had to be scrubbed, since on my way to work Friday morning the accelerator cable broke while driving on highway and I ended up having the Disco towed to parking garage at work. I now need to take care of the cable situation before moving forward with other situations at hand. I want to place the order for a replacement cable on Monday but find myself in a predicament as to which version to buy; if Atlantic British's $49.99 Accelerator Cable/Throttle Control Cable Discovery Series II - SBB500010 (roverparts.com); or Lucky8's $114 GENUINE ACCELERATOR CABLE V8 SBB500010 NEW – Lucky8 Off Road (lucky8llc.com); both are offered as "genuine", but the latter doubles in price and images of each look different, making me think that Atlantic British's may not be "original" or of "lesser" quality, but it does have positive reviews. What would any of you do? Also, I'm having a hard time finding info on how to replace it, so any input would be appreciated as well. Thanks again! ;-]#


I'm guessing it snapped where black sleeve meets the metal sleeve.

 

Ours is definitely the genuine cable. The price difference can be accounted for by the item number and packaging on the cable from Land Rover... It's the genuine part # with a "K" on the end.

The "K" suffix from Land Rover usually indicates the item was a warranty replacement item at one time and these types of items are usually discounted in price due to high volume use. Not sure why an item for this vehicle would still have a warranty "K" item available, but that is what we have and why it's cheaper. It is the genuine item, however.

We've updated the item photos to include a photo with packaging label for reference: https://www.roverparts.com/fuel-syst...re/SBB500010G/




Hope that clarifies.

 

Thanks for the clarification and picture updates "AtlanticBritish", I'm sure this will help future buyers. I did purchase yours on Monday and I'm waiting for its arrival on Friday, so looking forward to spend quality time with my Disco this Saturday. Hopefully the cable replacement is a pretty straight forward swap and I can get it done with no issues myself, even though I haven't been able to find instructions or tips for it. I will email you guys directly about it, thanks again! ;-]#

 

this has been a real saga, Adolfo... but we readers are hoping you will continue your reporting. We're pulling for you!