Basically just don't want to be caught mid-project and find myself needing an odd ball tool. Anything you wish you had on hand that would've made the procedure more efficient or easier?

 

ratcheting tap handle for cleaning up the threads. cant do 360 on all the holes because of firewall and stuff

 

I assume you will have the heads planed and new valve seats installed

 

Seats or seals? Educate me about seats needing to be replaced if that's what you meant.

 

Some 12 point sockets 8mm for the valve cover, I think 12 for the exhaust a manifold, and if you have SAI some thin wrenches I forget the size

 

Impact swivel joint for the head bolt nearest the firewall on the passenger side. Not that you will use an impact gun to knock it loose but the impact swivel joint helps on the end of a hand ratchet.

 

Just ordered, thanks!

 

if you are going with studs that’s not going to matter much. Highly recommended to clean the threads very well if going with stretch bolts.

 

You do not have to have new valve seats installed. A valve job wouldn't hurt, but not necessary if you're engine was running good before.

As for having the heads decked, also a good thing to do. However, if you're in a rush or on a budget you can simply check the heads for flatness with a good straight edge and feeler gauges. Factory spec allows .003" of warp if I remember correctly. I usually just lay a straight edge and shine a flashlight from behind to see if there are any gaps. I have rarely sent my heads off for any machine work and I've never had a head gasket I've installed fail.

I'd also recommend a shallow socket for the very furthest back head bolt that is partially obstructed by the firewall.

Good penetrating oil. Not PB Blaster, can link test video if desired. I like a 50/50 mix of ATF and [usually] Seafoam. Sometimes ATF and gasoline. Depends what I've got on hand. Wet your exhaust bolts a couple times over 48 hours before starting.

I always keep a caulk tube of Ultra Grey RTV. For a single job a squeeze tube would be plenty, but not as easy. I like to use a *thin* wipe around the coolant ports on both sides of the intake gaskets, and a thin wipe along the china wall for the valley. If you are doing oil pump and timing chain (highly recommended while you're in there), also paint a thin wipe on both sides of the timing cover gasket. On all this, when I say a thin wipe, I mean barely enough to coat it. You do not want any squish out.

On the oil pump, inspect your pump as soon as you receive it. I have received them damaged before.

When you install the new pump, pack it with Vaseline to prime the pump easily.

I like to replace the Valve cover bolts with stainless Allen head bolts for easier service in the future. I think they're 1/4-20 thread. If you go into the link in my signature for write ups it should be linked there somewhere to find the exact size. Valve cover leaks are also common on these, the bolts tend to loosen off over time. A small drop of blue thread locker when they're installed can help that.

Bypass the throttle body heater. I know this is a point of contention, but I've done every one I've owned and never had a problem in any climate, as low as -13 degrees. The Deputy who has even more experience than me will tell you the same. Freezing up throttle blades is an issue in carbureted applications where the fuel charge atomizing cools the air charge as it flows across the throttle blades. There is no fuel charge crossing the throttle blades in an EFI application.

That's the most of my recommendations. If you've got any more questions ask away.

 

Brandon didn't say anything about replacing the oil pump. Let's not confuse him!