Don't suggest Summit Racing or Jegs, because I already tried them. If you know nobody in US with them, can you suggest a supplier in England. Don't suggest my shimming the pedestals, etc. for I already know about all that B.S. and I have elected to install the adjustable push rods.

 

This is in the D2 section.
So you want adjustable pushrods for a 4.0/4.6??
Why, they have hydraulic lifters?

 

Sixpack577, Yes, I know, it IS a D2, with 4.6 engine. Yes, I know, they have hydraulic lifters, but you still need to adjust clearance with shims under the pedestals, or adjust them with adjustable push rods. I rebuilt several of these engines, so I have been through the rodeo several times.

 

Check with the guys at d&d Fab, if they are out there it's likely they would know or have them to sell

 

Adjustable push rods are for testing the required push rods length. You are not supposed to run an engine with them. Shims under the rocker mounts or a different length solid push rods are the correct ways to correct push rods length.

 

Good to know.
I'm rebuilding my first 4.6 now.
Waiting on block and crank at machine shop now, then have to order pistons.
I have refurbished heads, new cam, pushrods, lifters, rocker shafts, ect.
I haven't read anything about shimming the rocker shaft mounts yet.
I'll read the manual before I get there(I measure and torque everything).
Do you know where to buy 4.6 shims?
This is the first I've heard of them on these engines.
There were none when I disassembled it.
Thanks for any info.

 

Alex_M wrote "Adjustable push rods are for testing the required push rods length. You are not supposed to run an engine with them. Shims under the rocker mounts or a different length solid push rods are the correct ways to correct push rods length."
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Yes, adjustable push rods ARE for testing push rod length. However, in England, where they know more about the Rover and the Rover V8 than we do, make and use adjustable push rods, as I am planning to do. It simply is a much easier way to NOT have to shim the pedestals, but instead adjusting length on push rods themselves. Most Americans are not aware of this use, because hardly anybody bothers to bring in, from England, the adj. push rods. So, Alex's "correct" way is not the only "correct" way. I much prefer adjustable push rods, "correct" or "incorrect," they work well, and are much easier to install and adjust.

 

One more side note here, regarding shimming the pedestals or adjusting push rod length using adjustable push rods: When you had your valves ground, and/or any other valve work done, such as installing some new valves, and/or new valve seats, etc., you must be certain that ALL 8 VALVES in each bank have EQUAL stem length at rest, when adjusting using shims under pedestals, because shims under pedestals adjust ALL 8 valves in that bank (they are checked for equal length, using a precision straight edge, as used by machinists). So if one or more valves have different stem lengths, not equal, due to valve grinding, etc, they will not adjust equally via shims. Unequal valve stem length is not a problem in adjusting using adjustable push rods, because you are adjusting each stem apart from the others.
If you expect the "hydraulic action" of hydraulic valve lifters to take out all free play, you are wrong; that is why they use shims on pedestals or adjustable push rods. This all makes for quieter valve trains, with less premature wear of valve train.

 

OMG, just go order these things already!!!!!!!!!
> https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-603378ADJ

 

To see more good details about need for adjusting valve lash, tappet pre-load, shim kits, etc., google search RPI Engineering, Specialized Rover Engines, faqs.