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Anyone with heads off the block?

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Old Feb 16, 2018 | 11:47 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Jwehking
Wow! Thanks for the offer. Are the heads set up for SAI? I assume so since ‘04. On the end seals I did just as you suggested but I think I should have put a washer between the block and the clamp as a spacer. It appears the end clamps are designed to apply more pressure at the ends as I can rock the clamp back and forth without the rubber seal in place.

I see some specs in Rave so let me see how that pairs up with my heads once I get it torn down again. I can post the measurements too and see how it matches up with yours.

Ok, let me know, and I can measure these heads late afternoon/early evenig (eastern time, I'm in Va)
and yes, SAI heads.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2018 | 03:09 PM
  #22  
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My Rover is stock, I did not resurface the heads, however, the lower intake gaskets did not line up either...

I sealed the ends to my block with ultra black.

Its a pia, but the gasket will line up.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2018 | 03:12 PM
  #23  
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Once you torque the heads....I don't think anything can move.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2018 | 03:13 PM
  #24  
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When I did lifters and other parts a few months ago, before pulling engine, my lower intake gasket was a pain to line up too.
I could easily have had an air leak causing my misfires.
As it took many attempts before I ever got any codes, then finally the mass air.
Regardless, another "simple, easy job" that becomes a pain, and over a gasket.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2018 | 03:19 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by shanechevelle
Once you torque the heads....I don't think anything can move.
I wouldn't think so either.
The idea of torquing these heads, then the 1/4 turn (or whatever the manual says), then another turn, gives me the creeps. Not looking forward to that.
All the time and money in it, I'll be praying it doesn't pull any threads out.
I don't see why it just cant be torque to X ft lbs, in 2 or 3 stages and be done.
Stupid LR.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2018 | 05:15 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Sixpack577
I wouldn't think so either.
The idea of torquing these heads, then the 1/4 turn (or whatever the manual says), then another turn, gives me the creeps. Not looking forward to that.
All the time and money in it, I'll be praying it doesn't pull any threads out.
I don't see why it just cant be torque to X ft lbs, in 2 or 3 stages and be done.
Stupid LR.
Head bolts? I think the LR bolts are actually better. Torque will be affected by oil, thread cleanliness, wrench, etc. The LR bolts are certain tightness - turn X degrees. Don’t want a debate as there are varying opinions. This just happens to be mine.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2018 | 05:33 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Sixpack577
I wouldn't think so either.
The idea of torquing these heads, then the 1/4 turn (or whatever the manual says), then another turn, gives me the creeps. Not looking forward to that.
All the time and money in it, I'll be praying it doesn't pull any threads out.
I don't see why it just cant be torque to X ft lbs, in 2 or 3 stages and be done.
Stupid LR.
I'm with you, I don't care how many times I've replaced head gaskets it always feels like the head bolts (or nuts w studs)
are going to go Titz Up.

But it always looks soooooooo easy
>
 
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Old Feb 17, 2018 | 03:15 PM
  #28  
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Head measurements drivers side. Just 0.003 below spec using a plastic bullet caliper
 
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Old Feb 17, 2018 | 04:47 PM
  #29  
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I have the lower intake off again after I siliconed the ports last time. Still lots of oil pooled in heads but I think the intake did not leak. So not pcv, not intake, all that is left is valve stem seals? Both valve stem seals and valve guides were replaced new 800 miles ago. The shop used Teflon instead of the rubber type I gave them.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2018 | 11:06 AM
  #30  
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Sorry, I'm just now seeing this.
I will get the measurements tonight.
 
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