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anyone tried one of these front driveshafts?

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Old Mar 21, 2015 | 08:11 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by ls1morethanyou
my tom woods is holding up well.... well i am also not driving it but who is keeping count anyway... haha
So that's what you're doing, your preserving Your driveline. Good call
 
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Old Mar 21, 2015 | 09:40 AM
  #12  
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Dusty having seen your driving style I would recommend staying with a Tom Woods or GBR shaft or possibly something from the kenworth line...
 
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Old Mar 21, 2015 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by ArmyRover
Dusty having seen your driving style I would recommend staying with a Tom Woods or GBR shaft or possibly something from the kenworth line...
Oh I have gbrs and back up gbr spare.... I just stumbled upon it and thought it was a good deal so I thought I would ask if anyone had experience. I don't need one, but somebody might.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 08:54 AM
  #14  
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I might pick one up in a few weeks and see how it goes, keep the current standard duty one as a spare.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 05:28 PM
  #15  
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What is better for normal driving (street use) one of those or rebuilding oem shaft with new u-joint's and centering ball ?
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 05:42 PM
  #16  
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i'd say about the same. the shaft may be a little tougher on this, but not really the part that fails anyway. you will be getting a greasable unit either way. actually you could rebuild with the heavier duty 380 joints and it would prolly be a tougher unit
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 08:36 PM
  #17  
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Tkank's, is 380 a part# for precision or..... I am asking cause I don't know about part numbers. And what is the best for centering ball. And one more question, will they be a direct fit to oem shaft?
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 09:32 PM
  #18  
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yes 380 is the more heavy duty uj the shaft I have listed only supplies the 369....
not sure on centering ball part number but yes all direct fit
 
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Old Mar 23, 2015 | 11:20 AM
  #19  
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I have a GBR std front drive shaft which works well for me.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2015 | 07:10 PM
  #20  
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380 is a Precision 1310 series, same dimensions as the 369.
The 380 has the zerk in the end cap (rather than in the valley of the cross) which makes for a stronger u-joint, all else being the same.
 
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