I need to have a long over the phone conversation with someone who knows a great deal about both the braking system and the prop-shaft system. Been making TO MANY threads lately and still not getting the right answers to my questions and I really need to figure out what the hell is going on with my rover.

Summary:
Front brake pads were down to the metal when I purchased truck. Front passenger caliper **** the bed and lots of fluid leaked out. So I replaced all rotors and pads. Front calipers and Brake Master Cylinder replaced. Attempted to bleed brake system but the Master Cylinder would not take more than 1 quart of fluid. The system needs 2 quarts. Brake pedal does make a air flow noise when brake pedal is pressed, and the pedal itself is hard as hell to press down. Still not good braking at all. I need know how to properly bleed the system and if all else fails I need to know if the brake servo is shot. Shortly thereafter I slammed on the emergency brake to avoid accident, vehicle shook violently and heard loud noise and the brake light came on, since then Ive noticed a slight vibration while driving down the highway at speeds of 65mph and up. E-brake shifter seems slightly looser than before. Originally thought the front prop-shaft was going, but other members said the emergency brake is linked to one of the prop-shafts (I assume the rear shaft). So I speculate that the noise I hear on the highway has something to do with whichever prop-shaft is linked with the e-brake. Im about ready to replace front prop-shaft anyways but I need to make sure my rear shaft is still okay and figure out what was damaged before I go off and start buying more parts....

Ive spoken with DiscoMike several times on the phone and I dont want to keep bothering him. I just need someone to chat with while Im looking under the truck. I need explanations and I need to know what to look for. Can anybody please help?

Im available Monday and Tuesday all day.

 

You are going to have to take it to a shop with the T4 computer, you have to start bleeding the brake system at the SLABS unit and to do that you have to activate the SLABS unit with a computer.
You need to bleed the master cylinder, then the SLABS unit, then the calipers.
There is a cheat on how to activate the SLABS unit yourself without the T4 but I do not know what it is, but it can be done.
Google it, ask a Rover Tech, whatever but you can find it.
As for the vibration, the PARKING BRAKE is not meant for emergency stopping, thats on ANY car or truck, thats why its called a PARKING BRAKE.
You probably buggered the parking brake shoes, the parking brake is on the back of the t-case, the rear propshaft attaches to it.
The parking brake is the drum on the back of the t-case, there are 2 brake shoes inside of it, when you pull up on the handle you pull a cable which pulls the shoes out and they press against the inside of the drum and the friction from the shoes on the drum locks the t-case and keeps it from turning which keeps the wheels from turning.
When you release the handle springs attached to the parking brake shoes pull them away from the parking brake drum.
You have probably never seen drum brakes on a car before, it is the exact same thing only mechanical and not hydraulic.

 

Go to Nicks main page and bookmark it, start reading up on his tech/repairs/etc.
He is int he UK, and he has a TD5, but it is the same truck.
This is not on the parking brake but the t-case rear output seal, it shows the parking brake apart.
www.discovery2.co.uk / Transfer Box Rear Output Seal / Handbrake Shoes

 

heres a page from the RAVE that shows it, just like the drum brakes of old school.

Also, one of the other sites (Robinson) had this to say about the SLABS bleeding, which can be done with a variety of shop computers:


Another common problem is a mushy brake pedal.

In my experience, the only explanation for a mushy pedal is improper bleeding procedure. Bleeding a D II takes two (wo)men and the Land Rover test system, and it takes the two of them a bit over half an hour. You need the tester to operate the pump and valves to make sure all the air is purged from the modulator.

If you are paying for this service expect a labor bill in the range of one and a half hours and $20-30 of brake fluid. If you are not at a dealer make sure they use the correct Castrol LMA fluid. And don't even start this process unless the shop has a tester to run the pump and valves. You could bleed brakes in the field without one in an emergency, but there is no way to get a really good pedal without cycling pump and valves. There is no shortcut for this job. You need two people, and the Land Rover tester

 

You still have my number?

 

THANK YOU! Afew other members said there was no such e-brake drum setup on my Disco! If the e-brake is not for emergency situations than it seems pretty dam redundant considering my Disco is an Automatic transmission and alot easier to park secure vs a Manual transmission...... I do know what these drum brakes look like and honestly they look like a royal pain in the *** to service myself... BUT my main question here: Can a failing/ed "parking brake" disrupt the operation of the rear prop-shaft? Can using the parking brake in the manor that I described earlier damage the transfer case and or the prop-shaft? If no

How do I determine if either of my prop-shafts are bad? Is slight consistent vibration at speeds of 60mph+ normal for a D2 with 18 inch wheels mounted?

What does SLABS stand for? Is it the silver metal box under the hood next to the brake master cylinder?

I guess I ll scedule an appointment with DAP in the next few weeks to get the entire system properly bleed. So for now I need to focus on the vibration and prop-shaft.

Mike I still have your number, just hate disturbing you. Im young, and always full of questions about my new truck. and yes I already know that stock front prop-shafts need to be replaced no matter what.

 

You can call me. pm me for my #
tomorrow is good for me..

 

They dont put parking brakes on cars because they are needed, they put them on because the law says so, same reason you cant start it in gear, the law says so.
You should use your parking brake even with a auto trans, especially if you park on a steep hill.
Set the parking brake, then put the trans in park, this keeps the weight of the car off of the parking prawl on the trans.
Using the parking brake the way you did can grenade your t-case or the rear prop shaft.
SuspensionLevelingAntiLockBrakeSytem.
That is what controls all of the ABS, suspension, Traction Control, Hill Decent...
That is what tells your ABS pump to work, with the proper computer the tech will tell the SLABS unit to pump the ABS which will bleed the air out of it.
You have to disconnect the brake lines at the ABS modulator, bleed the ABS system, hook the lines back up, bleed the calipers.
How do you tell if your propshaft is bad?
With a visual inspection, you need to look for excessive play.

 

Thanks again Spike. So the SLABS is the silver metal box next to the Brake Master Cylinder correct? And it has brake lines mounted on the top of it.

See video regarding underbody and propshaft condition. Just filmed it tonight while I got some fluids replaced.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HM3SnckJ_k4

 

SLABS ECU (Genuine Part # SRD500070) - Land Rover air suspension from Atlantic British
Thats the SLABS computer, what you are talking about is the ABS modulator.
Brake pedal, master cylinder, ABS modulator, brake lines, calipers.
The SLABS unit takes all the info from the ABS sensors and tells the ABS pump what to do, it also tells the SLS compressor when to kick on and off.
The ABS modulator is what pumps the brakes to stop the tires from skidding (ABS) or spinning (traction control), which also runs off of the SLABS unit.