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ARP studs pulled my threads

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Old Apr 13, 2023 | 02:36 PM
  #21  
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So, with the longer studs you do not need to increase the depth of the stock threaded hole in the block? Just tap it deeper?
 
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Old Apr 13, 2023 | 04:09 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Richard Gallant
@Tony Luna Cracked blocks and stripped threads, it is old info back 6 or 7 years. I researched when I did my heads about 4 years ago. To be fair the recommended torques in that info were way stupid high too, sorry but I can not locate the info I found. If they are actually made for the Rover V8 you should be fine, as I recall a the issue was people sourcing Buick parts, which are not the same
Thank you.

Final torque on these is 70 ft/lbs.

Yes, the studs with longer threads are specifically for the ROVER V8.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2023 | 04:16 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Richard Gallant
@Tony Luna Cracked blocks and stripped threads, it is old info back 6 or 7 years. I researched when I did my heads about 4 years ago. To be fair the recommended torques in that info were way stupid high too, sorry but I can not locate the info I found. If they are actually made for the Rover V8 you should be fine, as I recall a the issue was people sourcing Buick parts, which are not the same
Thank you.

Final torque on these is 70 ft/lbs.

Yes, the studs with longer threads are specifically for the ROVER V8.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2023 | 04:18 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by dswilly
So, with the longer studs you do not need to increase the depth of the stock threaded hole in the block? Just tap it deeper?
Original holes are already threaded all the way down.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2023 | 12:54 PM
  #25  
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Here goes nothing…



 
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Old Apr 21, 2023 | 05:09 PM
  #26  
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Probably interesting in that context, Project Farm tests thread repairs:

I am facing a similar problem with a water pump thread.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2023 | 11:50 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Discorama
Probably interesting in that context, Project Farm tests thread repairs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jknMrFOGMOQ

I am facing a similar problem with a water pump thread.
Heli coli for the water pump thread for sure.

I talked to three different Rover V8 builders and they all said to go wit heli coils for the stripped head bolt threads. I did, and I managed to botch one of four holes I decided to do - tapped it slightly off. Got a heli
coil removal tool and installed the Full Torque blind insert from the video above. Very nice. So much so that I thought about redoing the other three heli coils but decided not to. So now I have three heli coils, one Full Torque insert, and new studs with much longer threads that go into the block all around. Cleaned up all the threads and will install the heads this pm. 🤞




 

Last edited by Tony Luna; Apr 23, 2023 at 10:55 PM.
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Old Apr 25, 2023 | 12:53 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by XRAD
who makes these longer studs?
Sorry I missed this. TWS in Connecticut.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2023 | 06:32 PM
  #29  
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IDK why you guys use ARP studs. There is 0 advantage over TTY bolds. In fact, TTY will almost always provide a more even clamping pressure.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2023 | 07:51 PM
  #30  
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@RoverMasterTech For me it was simple I have the tools to deal with studs and nuts, TTY require precise turns to be properly set and with the engine in the bay that can pretty tough. And I disagree properly torqued studs and bolts provide just as even a clamping pressure as tty bolts, I could be wrong there but I see no reason why not.
 
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