ARP studs pulled my threads
TReK
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 2,956
Likes: 754
From: British Columbia Canada
I know there are two very different opinions on TTY bolts, with very experienced and knowledgeable people on both sides. My understanding of TTY bolts is that the whole reason behind them is even clamping, even at varying engine temperatures. Once they are in the “stretch “ mode they stay at about the same tension. While you do want to be careful to turn them the correct number of degrees, I don’t think it’s necessarily that critical, for the above reason. This argument has probably been beat to death though.
Winching
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 511
Likes: 141
I am not an expert, just tracking this discussion. It appears that "stretch" is not exclusive to the bolts, only different in how it happens.
Some info here -
https://www.thomasnet.com/articles/h...ad-stud-bolts/
Some info here -
https://www.thomasnet.com/articles/h...ad-stud-bolts/
TReK
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 2,956
Likes: 754
From: British Columbia Canada
That’s a good article. When he writes about head bolts, he doesn’t indicate that he’s talking about TTY bolts, which is definitely different. Maybe it’s assumed to be TTY, but older vehicles didn’t use TTY bolts for their heads.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 811
Likes: 78
From: Howell, NJ
TTY is better for non forced induction. Way better for layman installation. Basically no error to be made in installation. The bolt gets to max clamping force and then starts stretching. You can turn it 100 degrees more and its the same clamping force. ARP are for forced induction, when the power of the explosion in the cylinder can actually stretch the bolts and lift the head. Head studs are also used for applications where you are going to have the head off a lot.
5th Gear
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 5
Likes: 3
That sucks. Block threads were probably already damaged before you got in there. When I put in my ARP studs, I hand tighten them w/allen wrench until they bottom out, then back off 1/2-3/4 turn. I do not leave them bottomed out, and no lube on the block side of the studs at all. ARP lube for head side of studs as recommended....
agree with above. Your block will be fine with coils, but have a machine shop do them. unless you have a way to tap dead on...and i would suggest a taper tap to start, and then switch to a blind tap. Also, driving in the coils can be a real pain if they bind half way in.....
agree with above. Your block will be fine with coils, but have a machine shop do them. unless you have a way to tap dead on...and i would suggest a taper tap to start, and then switch to a blind tap. Also, driving in the coils can be a real pain if they bind half way in.....
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