ARP Studs versus Head Bolts?
#31
1. Without scheduled re-torquing the head gaskets would have not lasted as long if ARP studs had been factory.
2. Yes, factory Land Rover bolts DO NOT clamp tight enough before stretching, this has been known since the 90's, the dealer I worked at switched to aftermarket head bolts to correct this problem in like 2003.
3. The ends of the heads move outward during expansion and contraction, gradually sanding off the gasket right at the coolant passages. (this expansion and contraction can/should be minimized by switching to an inline 180* thermostat) The swelling upwards of the head can also stretch any type of fastener, TTY or stud, thereby lessening the clamping force. ARP studs with yearly (or 6 month increment) re-torquing would probably work better than stretch bolts in the long run, but for the average Joe they are just not feasible, and will not offer any benefit that I can see.
2. Yes, factory Land Rover bolts DO NOT clamp tight enough before stretching, this has been known since the 90's, the dealer I worked at switched to aftermarket head bolts to correct this problem in like 2003.
3. The ends of the heads move outward during expansion and contraction, gradually sanding off the gasket right at the coolant passages. (this expansion and contraction can/should be minimized by switching to an inline 180* thermostat) The swelling upwards of the head can also stretch any type of fastener, TTY or stud, thereby lessening the clamping force. ARP studs with yearly (or 6 month increment) re-torquing would probably work better than stretch bolts in the long run, but for the average Joe they are just not feasible, and will not offer any benefit that I can see.
Re: re-torquing
Would you loosen them all the way and torque in three steps, or just check to see if each nut is still at the final torque from the initial installation?
#32
I wouldn't be surprised if an important part of the puzzle was the thermostat. It would be interesting to know how many have been replaced with parts store thermostats (which list the correct one as 195) and then have head gasket failure.
The correct US thermostat is a 180.
There's also the issue of the factory temp gauge which don't properly register overheat so the drive may never know. As far as the driver knows, "It never overheated and now my head gaskets are bad!"
The correct US thermostat is a 180.
There's also the issue of the factory temp gauge which don't properly register overheat so the drive may never know. As far as the driver knows, "It never overheated and now my head gaskets are bad!"
#33
In all the rebuilds I did for the Cadillac motors, I never re-torqued the head with ARP studs. The heads are torqued in a cold state. The warm up will add growth to the dimensions and have an additive force on the stud/bolt. The sanding of the head gasket due to contraction/expansion is a very far stretch of the imagination. If you are concerned about the composition of the gasket being eroded away, then I would suggest you go to the Cometic gasket as I have been saying for several months.
Cometic is a properly designed gasket in regards to fire ring position, diameter, and construction. Yes it does cost more as well, which seems to be a concern to someone putting a thousand bucks of labor and parts into a rebuild. Go figure on common sense!!!
Some of this stuff is a joke I read. If you are concerned about coolant temp then buy the inline thermostat housing and drop in a 180 degree Chevrolet thermostat with a weep hole. Or machine the manifold to accept the Chevrolet thermostat and bolt on your elbow. How come all of the aluminum based engined from other manufactures don't have sanded head gaskets and failures from thermal expansion/contraction with a fiber gasket?? Hmmmm. Is that what is really causing blown head gaskets to begin with?
What is the tensile strength of the stock head bolt to be able to say they are the cause of failed head gaskets? I'd like you to provide an actual tensile test on the bolt (new and aftermarket) as reference to specs..
Cometic is a properly designed gasket in regards to fire ring position, diameter, and construction. Yes it does cost more as well, which seems to be a concern to someone putting a thousand bucks of labor and parts into a rebuild. Go figure on common sense!!!
Some of this stuff is a joke I read. If you are concerned about coolant temp then buy the inline thermostat housing and drop in a 180 degree Chevrolet thermostat with a weep hole. Or machine the manifold to accept the Chevrolet thermostat and bolt on your elbow. How come all of the aluminum based engined from other manufactures don't have sanded head gaskets and failures from thermal expansion/contraction with a fiber gasket?? Hmmmm. Is that what is really causing blown head gaskets to begin with?
What is the tensile strength of the stock head bolt to be able to say they are the cause of failed head gaskets? I'd like you to provide an actual tensile test on the bolt (new and aftermarket) as reference to specs..
Last edited by racerxnet; 04-18-2013 at 08:51 AM.
#34
#35
You were not thinking at all when posting just a snippet which confirms my position. Include all of the paragraph for accuracy.
"Some of this stuff is a joke I read. If you are concerned about coolant temp then buy the inline thermostat housing and drop in a 180 degree Chevrolet thermostat with a weep hole. Or machine the manifold to accept the Chevrolet thermostat and bolt on your elbow."
Thanks and have a nice day.
P.S. antichrist, I am not focused on you or picking on you. I'd be interested in you providing the tensile test of the aftermarket and OEM head bolt you refer to as solving the HG issue. I can do this if sent 2 bolts and record the results. Again, have a nice day.
Last edited by racerxnet; 04-18-2013 at 10:38 AM.
#36
The rest you wrote, about a complicated alternative to just using the correct thermostat, is irrlevant.
I'd be interested in you providing the tensile test of the aftermarket and OEM head bolt you refer to as solving the HG issue.
#37
Here is some hard core math.
The verbiage is worth a read with respect to torque.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.cGE&cad=rja
The verbiage is worth a read with respect to torque.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.cGE&cad=rja
#38
Its called modulus of elasticity.I learned that some time ago in class when younger. I would reexamine parts of your response as some of them have no merit. I'll sign out on this topic, as it is a worthless cause on the Land Rover block in stock configuration. There are just to many design deficiencies inherent with the engine/management overall.
Good Luck to all
MAK
Good Luck to all
MAK
Anyway, when I'm ready to drop an extra $1,100 on the valve train of an engine that never revs past 5,000 rpm I'll be sure to contact you. Based on your responses throughout this thread I'm sure you are great to deal with from the customer side.
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