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ATTENTION Anyone with an extended watts link please post

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  #11  
Old 04-02-2013 | 10:00 PM
Bob Jones's Avatar
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From: Holland Landing, ON, Canada
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Huh someone PMS's worse than my wife! Cool.
 
  #12  
Old 04-03-2013 | 01:09 AM
toofaroffroad's Avatar
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From: Vancouver BC
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I extended mine. My upper arm (passenger side) was twisting the linkage too much and I went through two used linkage components (the middle bit with the three bushings) before figuring this out. I didn't really measure anything. I just extended the upper arm (passenger side) about .5" and also put a very very slight twist on it so the end on the diff wasn't twisted. This might sound like a hack job...and it was, but it worked and my linkage has been fine.

I had also thought about chopping off the mount point on the frame, dropping it down a couple inches and mounting it back an inch. I didn't go with this idea, mostly because I wasn't excited about welding so close to the gas tank.

Bit of background, the watts linkage seemed to be fine with my 3" suspension lift driving around town and on the hwy but when I got it off-road and fully articulated, it broke that little bearing/bushing thing for the upper arm...twice, causing that annoying clunking in the rear on every turn and bump.

I actually was blown away that I couldn't find any info on any forums with people that had this issue. Oh well DIY.
 
  #13  
Old 04-03-2013 | 06:17 AM
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From: Wayne County, Ohio
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Originally Posted by toofaroffroad
I extended mine. My upper arm (passenger side) was twisting the linkage too much and I went through two used linkage components (the middle bit with the three bushings) before figuring this out. I didn't really measure anything. I just extended the upper arm (passenger side) about .5" and also put a very very slight twist on it so the end on the diff wasn't twisted. This might sound like a hack job...and it was, but it worked and my linkage has been fine.

I had also thought about chopping off the mount point on the frame, dropping it down a couple inches and mounting it back an inch. I didn't go with this idea, mostly because I wasn't excited about welding so close to the gas tank.

Bit of background, the watts linkage seemed to be fine with my 3" suspension lift driving around town and on the hwy but when I got it off-road and fully articulated, it broke that little bearing/bushing thing for the upper arm...twice, causing that annoying clunking in the rear on every turn and bump.

I actually was blown away that I couldn't find any info on any forums with people that had this issue. Oh well DIY.
Ya the binding is the problem that's what got me to this point. After you extended the link did you switch to the poly bushings? Kinda pricey, just wondering if the stockers are still working...
Thanks for the info...
 
  #14  
Old 04-03-2013 | 09:18 AM
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Mudding
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From: Wayne County, Ohio
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Originally Posted by Bob Jones
Huh someone PMS's worse than my wife! Cool.
She didn't say she was on her period last night... hmm must be just you...

Please don't talk smack, you wont like what gets talked back to you ok.
 
  #15  
Old 04-03-2013 | 10:34 AM
dcarr1971's Avatar
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From: Pittsburgh, PA USA
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So you're looking to knock off these? Lucky8 Llc. - Take the road less traveled...

How much additional articulation are you thinking you'll achieve with this? Wouldn't building a full blown 3-link provide a lot more return for the work involved? (I ask because I'm really curious...I've known a number guys who've 3-linked their Discos, nobody who has gone this route...)
 
  #16  
Old 04-03-2013 | 11:03 AM
MuddMouth's Avatar
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Mudding
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From: Wayne County, Ohio
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Ya see that's what I was thinking too... 3 link. Ive been scouting the positioning of the links. I understand the triangulation theory but need to figure out where I wanna put them. I think the watts set up is very limiting as to how much articulation you can achieve in the rear. You got any links of guys sets that have done this?
 
  #17  
Old 04-03-2013 | 11:10 PM
toofaroffroad's Avatar
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From: Vancouver BC
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I did not switch to poly bushings. Aside from frigging with the passenger side arm everything else is stock and it's working fine.
 
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