min01 wrote: " I wouldn't consider the CKPS sensor magnet and two wires to be "electronics." No printed circuit boards. No resistors or other electronic components. "
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How do you know that the CKPS sensor has no internal electronics; only the external magnetic probe and 2 wires? How do you know that it does not have internal electronics, maybe as minor as a transistor or small integrated circuit perhaps, to slightly amplify the produced minute A.C. current, unless you were to x-ray one, or tear one apart? There is plenty of room in the housing where the magnetic probe projects, to contain some electronics. In my mind, it is pretty obvious that it MUST have more than just the magnetic probe and 2 wires, especially since the tend to fail in the way they do, though I could be wrong.

MINI01 wrote: "Several years ago the HDMI input on my first flat-panel TV stopped working. I poked around online and found a recommendation to bake the main board at 400°F for 10 minutes, then let it cool for 30 minutes before moving it. It worked. The reason explained was that thermal cycles created a fissure in a key solder joint, breaking the connection, "
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I have been working in electronics for over 50 years, and I would never conduct such a " repair," for that is a horrible way to repair faulty solder joints, even if the method works. There are far better ways to repair bad solder joints, and good ways to determine which solder joints are bad too.

 

JUKE179r wrote: "if you don't know how old your CPK sensor is, replace it with a Bosch unit ASAP for preventive maintenance and keep the old one as a spare. I tried 2 Duralast (Dura-not-last) CPK units and both were crap which I took back to AutoZone for refunds."
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I think this is very good advice, especially replacing it before the 100,000 mile mark. Since they are so hard to replace, considering their hard to get at location on the engine, I would keep as a spare, only a new one, not a used one, unless you enjoy changing these damn things in such tight quarters. I had no idea that Autozone sells ones marked Duralast, but I thought that the OEM German makers of the system, using only Bosch sensors, on the LR Discovery, knew what they were doing, so I would never try to go cheap, and use anything other than OEM Bosch CKPS sensors.

 

I literly just replaced my sensor and ran my rover for like an hour since it was sitting for so long and my sensor has gone bad again go figure and help

 

Unless your trucks motor is bone dry on the outside any oil and coolant will definatly shorten the life of the CPS along with the heat.

 

Most cps are an electrical coil, some have a chip...if you read the rave, it tells you that the cps creates a signal...that tells me...The "sensor" creates a magnetic force which the pads or pins on the flywheel pass the force which creates a fluctuation. The ecu then reads that fluctuation as a event and times everything based of that data with the cam sensor, o2 sensors etc. when to shoot fuel, when to ignite spark. So saying it is an electromagnet, I guess, wouldnt be a bad thing to suggest.

As far as heating a motherboard in the oven, many electronics that manufacturers use the wrong solder on, or use to low of a temp solder, need to have their solder re-flowed. Xbox 360 had the red rings of death because of this same solder issue. The solder heats from use which causes small cracks in the joints or the solder, these small cracks lose continuity and cause the component to not work. Getting it close to the re-flow temp, temporarily fixes the piece. With how small solder joints are the typical person cant fix them. I have a professional solder station complete with vacuum and multiple heat fixtures and I wouldn't touch some of motherboards.

My cps went out couple years ago, I replaced it with a new one which caused the truck to run like garbage. Bought one at the junkyard for $3 just to see if it was the new sensor and it's been in there ever since.

 

If you ever notice your car not starting up as fast, or like normal, suspect your CPS is failing.

 

I buy them from Auto Zone & I ask to inspect it before I buy it. If it's a Bosch I buy it, if it's a no name I pass and act like it's the wrong part lol. I had one no name from Auto Zone last maybe 3-4 months before it started acting funny (like out with the wife on our 7th Anniversary dinner lol...). I took it back to Auto Zone and got a free replacement in seconds no fuss at all. 90% of the time the Duralast box contains a Bosch unit, but just double check. After I got the replacement which was a Bosch unit it's been flawless.

 

315xxx kms still the OG sensor in mine.

 

My 1st new bad Duralast CPK sensor started making the engine sputter and die after 2 weeks.
The 2nd new bad Duralast sensor would randomly rev up the engine which made Myrtle lurch forward while in Drive. This happened a few times when I was sitting still at a stop light in traffic. Thank God I had my foot firmly on the brake the times it reved up. At first I thought it was from bad gas.
I switched out to a Bosch CPK and never had those problems again. Weird...

Now you jinxed yourself!

 

Yep I will never use a non Bosch CPS again.