Axle Identification
#1
Axle Identification
Hello - new to me Disco, stats in sig. I'm going to get it ready for my daughter to drive when she turns 16 in May.
I tried several combinations of searches and wasn't able to determine an answer to my question. How do I know if my axles have posi/trac-lok/limited slip without pulling a diff cover?
I'm going to go purchase the fluids Mike wrote up in the sticky to change all of them, but thought if I could determine whether I needed fish oil or not first it would save me a trip.
Is there any way to tell just by kneeling at the bumper and looking at the pumpkin? Thanks.
I tried several combinations of searches and wasn't able to determine an answer to my question. How do I know if my axles have posi/trac-lok/limited slip without pulling a diff cover?
I'm going to go purchase the fluids Mike wrote up in the sticky to change all of them, but thought if I could determine whether I needed fish oil or not first it would save me a trip.
Is there any way to tell just by kneeling at the bumper and looking at the pumpkin? Thanks.
#3
First off there is NO inspection cover, the diff comes out as one unit and can be done with the truck sitting on the ground.
Now to answer your question, no, it is NOT limited slip, it is a open diff, you have three open diffs, front, rear, and t-case.
These trucks are full time four wheel drive with a center locking differential (transfer case), when the CDL is locked equal power goes to the front and rear axles and the truck is virtually unstoppable.
The t-case and axles take the same fluid.
She MUST use premium gas, if she does not she will lose MPG and toast the engine in no time flat.
Now to answer your question, no, it is NOT limited slip, it is a open diff, you have three open diffs, front, rear, and t-case.
These trucks are full time four wheel drive with a center locking differential (transfer case), when the CDL is locked equal power goes to the front and rear axles and the truck is virtually unstoppable.
The t-case and axles take the same fluid.
She MUST use premium gas, if she does not she will lose MPG and toast the engine in no time flat.
#4
Thanks to you both - straight multi-weight it is then. I'm 6'6" and closing fast on 50...the fewer times I have to get on my hands and knees the better. It will be several weeks before I can take it to the local Air Force Base and get it on a lift. I did do my homework on the gas Spike - filled up with BP 93.
While I was at Auto Zone this evening I saw that they have several brands to choose from and several "levels" of oil. I know your partial to Royal Purple Mike, but they also have a high dollar Valvoline and a couple grades of Lucas oils (speaking diffs now...)
Your thoughts?
While I was at Auto Zone this evening I saw that they have several brands to choose from and several "levels" of oil. I know your partial to Royal Purple Mike, but they also have a high dollar Valvoline and a couple grades of Lucas oils (speaking diffs now...)
Your thoughts?
#5
The oil is your choice, I would do an ATF flush before changing out the oil.
Here is your homework list.
Mike
1 Oil filter, K&N 3001 or Mobil 1- 301
1 Factory air filter
6 Qts. of engine oil
2 feet of 3/16th vacuum tube
2 feet of 5/16th vacuum tube
12 Qts. of ATF
7 Qts. of 80/90W synthetic gear oil, 85W/140 for HD use
3 Pints of synthetic DOT 4 Brake fluid
2 Qts of synthetic Power steering fluid
2 Gallons of OAT, orange coolant, also called DexCool
1 Bottle of Lucas Power Steering additive
1 Bottle of Lucas Transmission additive
1 Can of Spray Carb. Spray
1 Can Of Brake cleaner
8 Spark Plugs, I use Bosch Platinum Plus 4's
1 Set of Magnacor 8mm plug wires
1 Serpentine belt
2 Bottles of SeaFoam gas additive
1 T/Stat
1 bottle of WaterWetter or Purple Ice
Hoses and belts, as necessary
60,000 Mile Service or Major Service for High Mileage Used Vehicle just purchased
Bleed the brakes
Flush and change the power steering fluid adding one bottle of additive
Service the tranny adding one bottle of additive
Change the coolant and t/stat
Do an engine flush before changing the oil
Do an induction cleaning
Clean the throttle body
Add fuel additive to full gas tank
Change both of the diffs fluid
Change the t/case oil
Replace the plugs and wires
Replace the air filter
Lube all the drive shaft grease fitting including the 2 slip shafts
Do full inspection of brakes, hoses, bushings etc.
Hopefully I didn't leave anything out.
Here is your homework list.
Mike
1 Oil filter, K&N 3001 or Mobil 1- 301
1 Factory air filter
6 Qts. of engine oil
2 feet of 3/16th vacuum tube
2 feet of 5/16th vacuum tube
12 Qts. of ATF
7 Qts. of 80/90W synthetic gear oil, 85W/140 for HD use
3 Pints of synthetic DOT 4 Brake fluid
2 Qts of synthetic Power steering fluid
2 Gallons of OAT, orange coolant, also called DexCool
1 Bottle of Lucas Power Steering additive
1 Bottle of Lucas Transmission additive
1 Can of Spray Carb. Spray
1 Can Of Brake cleaner
8 Spark Plugs, I use Bosch Platinum Plus 4's
1 Set of Magnacor 8mm plug wires
1 Serpentine belt
2 Bottles of SeaFoam gas additive
1 T/Stat
1 bottle of WaterWetter or Purple Ice
Hoses and belts, as necessary
60,000 Mile Service or Major Service for High Mileage Used Vehicle just purchased
Bleed the brakes
Flush and change the power steering fluid adding one bottle of additive
Service the tranny adding one bottle of additive
Change the coolant and t/stat
Do an engine flush before changing the oil
Do an induction cleaning
Clean the throttle body
Add fuel additive to full gas tank
Change both of the diffs fluid
Change the t/case oil
Replace the plugs and wires
Replace the air filter
Lube all the drive shaft grease fitting including the 2 slip shafts
Do full inspection of brakes, hoses, bushings etc.
Hopefully I didn't leave anything out.
#6
I am partial to RP, but there are lots of good synthetics out there. Lucas being one of them. Not as good, mid you, but good. Just make sure you use synthetic.
If you find water in the diffs, check the breather tubes for blockage and cracks. Make sure and service the transfer cae while you are in there. The fill hole is a little harder to get to, but while you have it up.....
Your year takes ATF in the power steering fluid reservoir. If you put in ps fluid it will leak. If it is leaking now, cut off the factory clamps and use new worm type hose clamps.
If you find water in the diffs, check the breather tubes for blockage and cracks. Make sure and service the transfer cae while you are in there. The fill hole is a little harder to get to, but while you have it up.....
Your year takes ATF in the power steering fluid reservoir. If you put in ps fluid it will leak. If it is leaking now, cut off the factory clamps and use new worm type hose clamps.
#7
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10-19-2012 07:39 AM