An auto store can test the battery/alternator in the vehicle for free.

 

Thanks Best4x4. Will their test do more than my voltage readings? Also, the nearest AutoZone/Advanced Auto is about 10 miles. If I fully charge the battery, do you think I would have enough juice to make it there and back?

On the battery, can I not rule that out since when I trickle charge it the voltage goes up? Thanks!

 

Without your headlights on it should make it (I’ve driven much further on a flat battery before). Their test will put a load on the entire system & give the results. I’d also take your alternator as they can test it inside as well.

Battery wise you can still have good voltage and a bad cell. Walmart has 49.00 Group 65 that will just squeeze into the battery tray. It’s nothing fancy but walmarts are everywhere so it makes it kinda handy. I myself like the deep cycle battery for 119.00 at Sams Club which is a Group 34 RV/Marine battery.

 

Thanks Best. I'll try everything you've said. In bringing the old alternator, is the thought that if both test good then I've at least eliminated the alternator as a problem?

One other thing, I decided to really clean the battery contacts and tighten everything down. I don't think it did anything, but I was reading 14.17 with the engine on and then 14.03 with a full load. I drove it around and the battery light was still intermittently "flashing" as I drove. Pulled into the garage and measured and the reading had dropped to 12.8 at idle, but the battery light was off. I revved the engine, battery light flickered, and the reading on the volt meter when back up to 14.03. Is this intermittent behavior ever occur with declining batteries? I just don't know why it would show different volt numbers. Hopefully I'll get my answer from AZ/AA.

Thanks again. Appreciate your input and patience.

 

Last thing...I'm wondering if I connected the smaller of the two wires incorrectly. I ended up hooking it up with a spade connector to the spade terminal, but I'm wondering if I should have connected to the other (D+?) terminal. The manual that came with the alternator made no mention as to what went with what, but maybe it should have been obvious if I knew what I was doing. Some Internet searches seem to indicated that this spade connection might be for a "tach connection"?

Pic below of what I'm describing. Thanks.

 

Yeah that isn’t a typical LR Bosch replacement. I’d try the round terminal for kicks & see what happens.

 

Where did you connect the positive wire too?

You also may be able to find a rebuild kit for your original alternator.

 

Thanks Best, I'll try that when I get home today. It looks like the D+ is for the battery light, so that may be why I am getting the flashing battery light...but still not sure why I would get the fluctuating readings.

Shane -- I connected the main wire to the B+ terminal. Pretty sure that is correct.

 

Had similar symptoms on a bat with a dead cell. It happens. Sounds like you've just about ruled out the obvious stuff. I'm guessing bad batt.

 

I bet, and I'd put $100 on it, but check your exciter wire connection. It runs from the dash light to the stator on the alternator. If it doesn't supply voltage to the alt all the time, you won't get any charge out.