Driving home the other night truck ran a little rough, then went into limp mode. Made it home but it wouldn't start next day and batt. , oil pressure, and check engine light on. Ran diagnostic and no pending codes. Limp mode went off, but lights stayed on and car won't start. Battery reading 12.5, tried to jump it and still wouldn't start, read 13.6. Positive terminal is clean.

 

Is it cranking over?

Or cranking over, but not starting?

The oil and battery light will stay on until it starts up (running) and oil pressure and voltage are recognized, and the check engine light will stay on even after codes are cleared, if it won't start. Once it starts, if all systems are in working order...all lights should go off.

Brian.

 

It is cranking but not starting.

 

If you have a no-start situation without any codes. I'd start with the basics, fuel, spark, timing and compression.

Since you probably have compression (but, we have a great topic on that going on right now, so you may want to take a peak at that), since it ran...but got worse slowly...you can probably rule that out.

Fuel, do you hear the fuel pump running while you are cranking it over? It should run for a few seconds when you initially turn the key to the "on" position and run steadly while cranking. If you don't hear fuel pump...report back.

Spark, pull a spark plug wire, insert a screwdriver into the boot end and rest it against something metal. Have someone crank it over, while you watch for spark. Should be a bright blue, snappy spark. Report back with your findings.

Timing, remove your oil cap and have someone crank it over, while you look down in the hole for movement of the valve train rocker arm. This will "somewhat" tell you if the timing chain and gear are intact...but you will still need to verify if the timing mark lines up on the harmonic balancer, while at number 1 cylinder at top dead center. Again, report back with your findings.

These are the four basics for making an engine run, so if one of these are missing...we can look for the course of action to find out why.

Brian.

 

Thanks. I will get to work and report back.

 

All great advice. I do think that the baffle inside the valve cover will prohibit your ability to see valve train movement, but I could be wrong.

 

I'm confused by this. It went into limp home mode and the check engine light but there were no pending codes? There had to be some codes... that had surpassed pending. Did the OP get them? Those codes would be helpful.

Deputy, I'm not trying to be a smarta$$, but my rover valve covers have a shield under the filler tube that prevents visual of the rockers. I much prefer the setup on my old MB 300cd diesel where I can watch the oil bathe the rockers while they turn. Mesmerizing.

But for the lack of codes, a common fault preventing start (and causing stalling) is a failed crank sensor. P1884, if memory serves (which it probably doesn't); there is any easy and cheap fix. Sometimes, it is just oil in the connectors. This is an example of why I think the Rover engine is basically a dishonest engine.

Limp mode has so few causes... I'm really interested in the resolution of this one. I can tell you I have experienced limp​​​​​​ home only once, and it cost me several thousand for a transmission. A few days later I found out that the real problem was the battery... when the new transmission did the same thing. That shop is no longer is business.

 

Yes, you guys are probably right. I didn't actually look at mine, though I had done the oil change on the 03 recently, and kind of thought I could see the rocker. So, l just assumed you would be able to see movement. I've done so many oil changes in my life...hard to keep track of every oil cap opening l've slipped a oil pump nozzle into...lol.

Please don't ever assume I can't stand criticism or being corrected, I've been on several of these boards over the years and I'm normally "happy-go-lucky" about my being here.

Yes, I found it weird that the original poster didn't find any codes, after going into limp mode. But, I just assumed, again...lol, that maybe the vehicle started running bad and he "assumed" it was a limp-mode.

Brian. (aka - happy go lucky guy)

 

Also, another way to check very quickly if you have crank/camshaft movement, is check for vacuum at a port behind the throttle plate, you should get a vacuum reading of at least 16 inches...if the valve train is working and pistons are going up and down.


Or pull number 1 spark plug and stick your finger in there while someone cranks it over, if you have compression, chain is on there. Now, whether or not it has jumped or something is yet to be determined.


Brian.

 

I was thinking about this thread this morning and was amazed when I realized there is no visual indicator of the camshaft actually turning in a Disco so you have to figure it out indirectly as Brian suggests. Maybe that's not uncommon. In the MB, when I look in the oil cap I am staring at the turning camshaft. I love that.