Here's a link to Electrical diagram... I'm rusty at reading schematics so I figured I'd post it up for you to look at as well.
http://www.landy.ee/manuals/electricity/Disco_Elec.Troubleshooting%20Manual%20-%20LRL0077ENG%20(1997).pdf
I'd recommend downloading it to your computer and opening with adobe reader. You can hit Ctl + F to find key words and go to a diagram with that word on the page. If you have a mouse wheel... you can click the wheel and hold to move around. You'll have to zoom to read most of it... hold Ctl and mouse wheel to zoom... or Ctl + for in and Ctl - for out.

Check resistance from the alternator enclosure to the chassis... or to negative battery post. You should get some resistance but it shouldn't be infinite. I know... it really is a stretch as it is grounded through the mounting bolts... but it's an easy test.

I'll keep looking but I am very rusty... much like most rovers... Good Luck.

Clay

 

Thanks Clay99d2. The resistance from the alternator to the negative battery ground (disconnected) is not too high (I think). A picture is attached. Thanks also for the electrical manual! Mine is a Series 1, 1997. Will there be much difference? Thanks again and please let me know your additional ideas. I'm thinking a relay, but don't know which ones to start testing by swapping out.

 

Any additional ideas on what the problem could be? Any clues on which relay(s) may be involved with the progressive lack of charging? Thanks in advance!

 

I recently had charging issues my self and it turned out to be the positive wire that connects the alternator to the eng fuse box. You can try reading out that wire and see if its the culprit.

 

I would go back to the 150A mega fuse (FL1). I've burned that out a couple of times for various reasons, and each time it has exhibited different symptoms. However, the only consistent symptom was that the battery didn't charge.
A new fuse is only about four dollars. Get a couple of them in case there's a short that caused it to blow.

 

Thanks Daedix. I disconnected the battery completely and hooked an ohm meter between the large wire at the alternator and the main fuse connection. i tied them both along with the positive battery terminal. All had almost no resistance to the wire at the alternator.

 

Thanks mollusk,

i tested the fuse and there is no resistance between the two sides. Please see the picture. Please keep the ideas coming.

 

I would check under the floor mats for moisture, if you have a sun roof THOSE hoses come loose and sometimes are not routed properly. That water entering will corrode connections, contact cleaner and elbow grease your going to have to pull your headliner down a bit or maybe out if you can not get tubes in place. Dry out your vehicle, disconnect any and all grounds to chassis/engine/frame clean and reconnect (check they are tight) . Wiggle connections with parking lights on and watch (or have helper watch) for changes in brightness. Use jumper cable to attach negative of battery to FRAME see if problem still exists. This WILL save many of us from electrical issues. WD 40 WD stands for water displacement and it works well.

 

Hey Art. Welcome to the forum.
Hopefully ldaddy figured out his charging problem from 2016. lol

 

hi idaddy
Did you manage to fix your charging problem from 2016 ? I'm having the same problem now so if you did find a fix could you let me know please thanks