Been having pressure problem on the break peddle for some time. First press - drops to floor with little resistance. If immediately releasing and re-pressing, I get full pressure and normal breaking.

Asked my mechanic (very good - very reliable) to look at it a year ago, said they seemed normal to him. Today I'm certain something's outta whack - rather not find out for sure at 60 mph when they fail completely!

One other note, there's a small surface rust spot on the M.C., on top and just behind the plastic reservoir. Does it sound like a failing M.C. or simply air in the lines? Not technically savvy enough to know the difference.

2000 Disco II, 75,005 on the odo.

Appreciate thoughts or recommendations;
Thanks in advance,
Larry

 

Sure sounds like air in the lines and they need to be bled. When I did the SVS repair, it took several times to get all the air out. If you or a mechanic flush and bleeds the system and it does not help you have bigger issues somewhere.

 

My 2001 Discovery II sort of does this. Never to the floor but first pump about 1/4 way down.
Next pump - if fast, seems normal.

I was going to bleed the system at some time.

Here is a cautionary tale from our 1997 Discovery I.
The Discovery I kept using brake fluid. The low fluid light would come on.
Kept adding fluid for about two years.

I could also see brake fluid on the front left wheel when I washed the truck.
Ignored it.

The brakes one day completely failed when backing up. Pedal to the floor and no brakes at all.

Dealership replaced the Master Cylinder and two front Calipers. No issues since.

 

"My 2001 Discovery II sort of does this. Never to the floor but first pump about 1/4 way down.
Next pump - if fast, seems normal."

"THE DISCO TWO STEP" can be fixed by replace the hoses and flushing the system, it made a world of difference in my truck. I now know it will stop if i only have time to hit the pedal once.

 

Drowssap,
SS brakes lines? Where to get those?

And, can I loosen one bleeder screw, put a hose on it into a bottle of clean brake fluid and pump about 10 times on a wheel and move to the next one? The old fashioned way?

There is only me to do this.

 

I've seen that lot of people use the SS lines from AB (Performance Stainless Steel Brake Hose Kit (Part # ABP218) - Land Rover kits from Atlantic British).

To my knowledge the system needs to be pressurized so you'll need a power bleeder if you want to do it yourself else you'll need a friend to pump the brakes while you open and close the valves.

A question about SS lines (sorry to semi thread jack) but has anyone used the goodridge lines sold by rovers north (or any where else that sells goodridge)? I ask because probably going to do this soon and its much easier (and cheaper) to drive 20 mins and pick up a set than pay shipping and wait a few days to get it from AB.

 

the lines that Ab sell are good I do not know if they are made bt goodridge. you need to completely bleed the system. you can use a power bleeder but it is not nessasary, it take 15 minute by hand.
Get the old lady to sit in the truck and "pump it up-hold it down" 80% is going to come out of the right rear, 10-15 minutes tops.
But the **** that is going come out is unbelievable Black, I mean black fluid. It is light in the beginning (from the caliper) and light at the end (master) but the stuff thats sitting in the metal brakelines in between Black.
I have Pic i keep forgettting to post of what 10 year old brake fluid looks like when it has not been flushed.

 

Thanks for all the input/feedback/suggestions. Looked at those SS lines and they're cheaper than a new M.C., at any rate.


Appreciate all the help,
Larry