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Bleeder Screw issue

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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 08:59 AM
  #11  
primussucks's Avatar
Rock Crawling
Joined: Jun 2012
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From: frisco texas
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I built mine out of Black Pipe Problem solved.

https://plus.google.com/photos/11352...IbQj8TDsIDqvQE
 
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 11:24 AM
  #12  
04duxlr's Avatar
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From: Duxbury MA
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That ought to do it. Not a bad setup! You could also drill and tap that for a temp sender. Maybe you should install one of those auto bleeders from a hydronic heating system too: WATTS Valve, Vent, Automatic - Vent Valves - 4A821|FV-4-1/4 - Grainger Industrial Supply
 
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 12:48 PM
  #13  
primussucks's Avatar
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From: frisco texas
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tell me more about this auto bleeder? never heard of it before, and i am ALL for something that will bleed this thing out.

in the picture, the plug on the top of the pipe was where I originally put the valve, but it stood up to high so the hood wouldn't close... so I plugged it, and moved the valve to the back, its current position.

Are you suggesting I could replace that valve with one of these little auto bleeders?
 
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 04:14 PM
  #14  
04duxlr's Avatar
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From: Duxbury MA
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I was kidding. The plumbing fitting made me think of it. Auto bleeders are used over the boilers in a hot water heating system (among other places) to allow any trapped air to escape so that the system functions properly and is quiet. There is also a chamber that is installed in line to seperate out any diffused air in the system. They have a port on the top that is sealed by a floating plug (essentially a ball). When the air fills the top of the bleeder, the float sinks and lets the air out. Once the fluid fills the chamber the float is pushed into the port again. It woudl probably work fine, except to use it a Discovery, you would need to cut a hole in the hood.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2012 | 08:02 AM
  #15  
Rover Dawg's Avatar
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Drifting
Joined: Nov 2012
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From: South Georgia
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I put in the new bleeder screw from BMW and I guess when my original screw went bad it messed the threads in the t-coupling up because it now leaks around the new screw. As a temporary patch while waiting for the new upper hose assembly to arrive I put an M10-1.25 bolt with a rubber o-ring in the hole. This keeps it from leaking around but now I have the waterfall under the dash issue.

I have bled it using Disco Mikes procedures the last 2 mornings when the truck was stone cold but the problem persists. Could the longer bolt be causing this? Should I just ignore it until the new part arrives? Your thoughts on this are appreciated.
 
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