I have been through several threads on this topic and don't seem to find a concensus. I do not have a testbook and the closest LR dealer is hours away.

I have replaced the abs unit. I have read that jumping the abs relay will get the air out but other posts say this is not true. Does anyone have experience with this?

 

i replaced the entire abs unit and didn't have to do a power bleed. the one that i installed had been on my parts truck and had been in use a few months prior, and i did not disassemble it so there may still have been some fluid inside it. would not have been too much in there though.

i used a vacuum bleeder tool on each wheel, going in order rf - lf - rr - lr.

 

I may be wrong but I believe that bleed order is a misprint in the RAVE. I have been turning wrenches for 40 years and I always did RR, LR, RF, LF.

But that was for Detroit stuff without the funny accent.

 

the pictures and the printed order in the rave are consistent, so it doesn't seem likely that's an accidental misprint. whether it makes sense it another matter.
but in any case, that's the order that i did the bleed in and it worked fine.

 

Yeah. When I thought about it the presence of an abs system probably changes things from my 59 Chevy and 64 dodge

 

Agree. I've seen it somewhere and the procedure was different. I dont remember where...Mitchell, alldata....possibly.

 

Yeah I’ve always bled furthest wheel to the closest one, but I can see the issue with air possibly getting back to the short run.

The relay jumped with a wire/switch works great for me. I do it probably 2 times just to be sure, but it pumps the fluid/air out. Since you replaced the unit I’d do the RAVE process & then finish it off the old fashioned way. Just don’t let it suck air at the reservoir & you should be good to go.

 

X2 on jumping the ABS relay and letting the ABS system do the pumping for you. That's how I used to do it before I got my Autocom that has a brake bleed feature that engages each wheel independently. After I bleed each wheel, I engage low range on the transfer box, select manual mode, first gear, hill decent control, then drive down the street. Accelerate to more than 5mph and let off the gas, the ABS engages to slow you down and that bleeds the modulator.

 

ABS is always a bugger to bleed. I find I get caught up in procedures and forget to check for the basics. Is there a leak at any of the unions? Always suck in air if there is. I also have a trick for clearing the abs...drive it down a dirt road and slam on the brakes a few times. Forces abs and moves it through. Big problem on gm motors even with tech book etc. never clears as it should. Landy should be easier as the abs is in the engine bay and not underneath but no reason why the fix shouldnt work for you too. sometimes its just bleed bleed bleed.