Understood. Exactly why I was askng about the pressure test kit in my original post. Not ordering anything, or sending the heads out, until I am sure the block is OK.

 

Maybe put that cylinder head fix stuff into it.
I mean, if you pull it apart and that will be 5 to 10 hours..
and you find that indeed #4 is a water fountain..

Then you have this land rover all apart and you will probably not want to put it all together..

As you said - new car time.

I would look for a new engine - right now and just assume you need to replace it.
Don't go thru all that misery for #4.

If 1,2,7,8 YES worth the risk.
but, #4..

Are you losing coolant fast?
Lots of misfire codes on #4?
Why is #4 suspect?

Plus that coolant is going into the CAT and ruining the O2 sensor.
I been there and ruined those..

 

Not losing coolant fast, but unable to bleed the system due to exhaust gasses.

Only get the misfire every once in a while. Alway at start-up.

The code is Cylinder 4 misfire, which is why I suspect #4. Although, I have pulled the plug and looked at the piston...no probelm with the plug and piston is not steam cleaned.

 

Yes, they are stud bolts. Course on the block end and fine thread on the other end. There are nuts and washers along with a kind of lube paste that ARP provides in the box, and they get torqued in sequence in 3 equal increments up to 80 lb-ft. I have had good luck with them so far, and my LR buddy at Platinum Motor Sports in La Grange, KY swears by them, and that is all they ever use for a head job that comes in. You can also reuse these studs unlike stretch bolts.

 

I run Barrs leaks in our D1. Have so for two years now. Ever since it had antifreeze
in the crank case and antifreeze in the cats which ruined both of them.

And, I still run Barr's leaks after I changed the head gaskets.

On the D2 I just bought in the Denver Area, I used Barr's leaks before I bought it to diagnose.

It did NOT misfire at all after I added the Barr's leaks.

I did still go ahead and change the head gaskets - as I could not get the water fall sound out and could not bleed the cooling system as you can't.

OK, so you sold me.

You may have an unrelated problem with a #4 misfire.
And you may have a weak head gasket at #1,2,7 or 8 giving you pressure into the coolant system.

I had so much pressure I could take off my coolant cap - rev it a bit and all the coolant would try to rush out.


You are only out $200 or so for head gaskets and bolts if you don't resurface the heads.

Both times I have forgone resurfacing and not done it.
Our D1 at 136,000 had head gaskets put on it and now at 164,000 and seems OK.
The D2 - I have only gone from 96,000 to about 99,000 now on the new head gaskets and no resurfacing.

2nd time doing the heads - if this is your 2nd time - will not be so bad.

 

Hey Guys,

Thought I would throw a quick update out here.

I got the block pressure tester from Motorcars LTD and checked the block last night. Had it up to 40 psi in the block and could not find a leak anywhere. Sprayed soapy water all over the liners and nothing...no bubbles at all.

I am having the heads checked this week and will put her back together with a new gasket kit and see what happens. If the issue is still there, it's K-Seal time until I feel like speding $1500 for top hats.

 

So my own post came up in my search.

I know this thread old, but I never updated with the outcome. The head gasket replacement fixed the issue with the cylinder 4 code. Unfortunately, my son overheated the engine and I am replacing the gaskets once again. I can’t remeber how many times I told him to shut the engine down if it overheats...I don’t care where you are, shut it down. His response was “I was only a couple miles from home, it wasn’t that far.” So this time it’s elring gaskets, copper spray, and arp studs. It’s a sad day when you literally rip the engine down to the heads without a manual beacause you’ve done so many times.

So that’s how I will spend my 4th this year.

Happy 4th of July everyone. Democrat or Republican, we are ALL Americans.

 

Thank you for the update. I just tested the block and head for pressure they held on my home testing rig. I'm very confused on why/how I have water in a middle cylinder if it's not the head or block. You didn't seem to confirm you had water in yours, mine is steam cleaned but it's good to hear a HG fixed it at least for a while. Thanks again for following up on your thread at least.