R&R of the crank shaft and connecting rod bearings.

Everything went pretty smooth with the crank bearings (the originals looked clean for 190K).

Started on the connecting rod bearings (which did not look too good). Front to back, all was going well until I got to the last one (naturally).

Both of the bolts never really loosened up during removal. All the other bolts (main and rods) came out easily once I broke them loose. The cap came right off after the last threads disengaged. The bearings did not look any different from those of the previous seven rods.

I was able to push one of the bolts through the cap by hand, but the other seems to be stuck. It will turn using a ratchet, but I cannot get it out and don't want to force it. Almost feels as if it were galled. The bolt that came out screws into both rod holes with no issues. Thinking about punching the stuck bolt out, slightly reaming the holes, and installing new bolts.

Thoughts?

 

Why? they aren't supposed to be loose or sloppy. Rod bolts should be a slight interference fit NOT a clearance fit.

 

X2 on the interference fit, plus aren't the rod bolts STT anyway?

 

Thanks for the replies.

Seemed odd that the previous 14 bolts would come right out with no resistance.

As for STT, I assume this means Stretch To Torque (one time use only)? If so, wouldn't the instructions in RAVE state to discard after removal?

 

Hi Tony, I cannot confirm whether the D2 V8 bolts are STT but under normal circumstances rod bolts are re-used. If there is any doubt and they are relatively inexpensive I'd replace all 16 rod bolts and nuts as they are fundamental to the engine and do suffer highish stress during their service years/life. If it were me, due to their criticality and being you have the engine in pieces I'd replace them with the genuine bolts or of equivalent quality (don't go cheapo as they are usually just that) It might be worth an e-mail to Turner Engineering who are specialists in LR engine rebuilds and very helpful and they will no doubt put you in touch with a suitable alternative bolt supplier. Good luck and post the results.

 

I've built quite a few engines, I always suggest new hardware! Head bolts, rod bolts, pan bolts, I toss em all away. Even if a bolt isn't STT, it will stretch a bit.

Get new bolts, and run a tap through the hole to clean the threads.

 

Thanks.

Got it to the shop today and took the bolt out. Slight galling. Both holes had the slightest step in them towards the top - just enough to score the enlarged part of the bolt shaft. Reamed the holes out a hair and waiting for new bolts to come in.

 

Good advice - thanks.

 

Just had the exact same issue. Lightly tapped the bolt out and used a file to adjust the hole ever so gently. Replaced with new bolts and my dad drove off to New Mexico. No issues.

 

Crappy manufacturing tolerances on a Rover... Impossible!