Brake fluid flush cause 3 flamingos???
So here's my issues. I had NO Amigos prior to discovering a greasy rear hub so I grabbed a front hub out of a 99 disco from the Jyard since they are interchangeable and it was quick and easy and already removed from the axle.
The hub I got appears to be fine with no signs of grease leaking or slop in the bearing. While I was swapping the jyard hub in I replaced the rear pads and decided to just do a quick flush on each caliper so swap the fluid for some a bit fresher. Once I had everything back together I took her for a spin. As soon as I hit 10 MPH the TC light came on and the truck pulled to the right almost to a complete stop. I even used the same wheel speed sensor from the old hub since I had no light prior. Still no Amigos at this point so I decided to creep home and tear it apart again to just make sure everything was buttoned up correctly and it was.
So back on the road I went. At this point the 3 amigos lit up so the pulling to the right stopped since TC was disabled. This had me wondering so I went back home and put the old hub back on since I had no light with this one only some grease seeping out and still the same thing. I don't have a scanner for the amigos so I was hoping that they would go away with the old hub but I guess they stay on with a hard code until you reset them even if you fix it. So between the fluid flush and the new/old hub I don't get why the issues popped up??? I know I should buy a scanner but I was hoping the lights would go away on their own.
****i paid the piper and just ordered an Auten AL619 for 100 bucks on Amazon so I suppose that's not too terrible. We'll see what the code says but in the meantime I'm curious about opinions.
The hub I got appears to be fine with no signs of grease leaking or slop in the bearing. While I was swapping the jyard hub in I replaced the rear pads and decided to just do a quick flush on each caliper so swap the fluid for some a bit fresher. Once I had everything back together I took her for a spin. As soon as I hit 10 MPH the TC light came on and the truck pulled to the right almost to a complete stop. I even used the same wheel speed sensor from the old hub since I had no light prior. Still no Amigos at this point so I decided to creep home and tear it apart again to just make sure everything was buttoned up correctly and it was.
So back on the road I went. At this point the 3 amigos lit up so the pulling to the right stopped since TC was disabled. This had me wondering so I went back home and put the old hub back on since I had no light with this one only some grease seeping out and still the same thing. I don't have a scanner for the amigos so I was hoping that they would go away with the old hub but I guess they stay on with a hard code until you reset them even if you fix it. So between the fluid flush and the new/old hub I don't get why the issues popped up??? I know I should buy a scanner but I was hoping the lights would go away on their own.
****i paid the piper and just ordered an Auten AL619 for 100 bucks on Amazon so I suppose that's not too terrible. We'll see what the code says but in the meantime I'm curious about opinions.
Last edited by usaf_disco; May 9, 2017 at 07:32 PM.
Yes the codes stay till you erase them.
I think you must have overlooked something when you did the pads because the sensor wouldn't have made that happen (IMO) or on the flip side...maybe your stuff was all dorked up and the new/used hub exposed it?
I think you must have overlooked something when you did the pads because the sensor wouldn't have made that happen (IMO) or on the flip side...maybe your stuff was all dorked up and the new/used hub exposed it?
i wish I had missed something because that's an easy fix.
I bet that Britpart from LRDirect wouldn't have caused this 
Only time I have ever had a single rotor lock up like that was due to a failure at the caliper but, hard to know for sure. Did you check the rotor for any damage?

Only time I have ever had a single rotor lock up like that was due to a failure at the caliper but, hard to know for sure. Did you check the rotor for any damage?
i should have got that britpart hub but the rover would have been down longer waiting for shipping . Well in theory but you see how that's panned out. I never noticed any sort or rotor damage or anything wierd.
***FIXED***
I believe that I fixed the problem without really doing anything much. I received my ABS reader (autel AL619, which works great and was 100 bucks on Amazon new btw) so I scanned and got rear left sensor signal low/erratic as well as a shuttle valve fault.
So I went ahead and cleared the codes and swapped my junkyard hub back on as well as the abs sensor that accompanied it from the junkyard. Keep in mind when I swapped hubs the first time I left the wheel speed sensor that was originally on the bad hub in place to install on the junk yard hub since I had no ABS faults prior. Hopefully that makes sense but so far ive put about 50 miles on it with no problems. Realistically all I did was swap the "good" ABS sensor for the junkyard one. Picky things these rovers.
P.S. I also fixed some stuck caliper slide pins which helped the braking feel since now both pads are actually working!!
I believe that I fixed the problem without really doing anything much. I received my ABS reader (autel AL619, which works great and was 100 bucks on Amazon new btw) so I scanned and got rear left sensor signal low/erratic as well as a shuttle valve fault.
So I went ahead and cleared the codes and swapped my junkyard hub back on as well as the abs sensor that accompanied it from the junkyard. Keep in mind when I swapped hubs the first time I left the wheel speed sensor that was originally on the bad hub in place to install on the junk yard hub since I had no ABS faults prior. Hopefully that makes sense but so far ive put about 50 miles on it with no problems. Realistically all I did was swap the "good" ABS sensor for the junkyard one. Picky things these rovers.
P.S. I also fixed some stuck caliper slide pins which helped the braking feel since now both pads are actually working!!
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