I use this for removing even the most stubborn studs. It's one of those tools I don't use a bunch, but it's there for situations like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-71200-S...stud+extractor

 

That was my first thought. Had three cylinders that looked like that, because of slipped liners on my block. But, I had the "tick" to accompany the steam cleaned cylinder and pistons.

I'd be curious to see the other side. Hard to believe it has been a part recently, since the head bolt broke.

I guess it could be that clean depending on what type of fuel you use.

Anyhow...

Regarding the broken bolt. I'd soak the living daylights out of it for a few days, clear away any flameable materials (make sure there is no fuel hanging around after disconnecting that fuel line) and then heat the bolt a couple times, letting it cool between each heat treatment and reapplying blaster each time. Then using your best visegrips or stud remover tool, try removing bolt. If you get no movement, try tightening the bolt some. I've ran into bolts that wouldn't move coming out, but if I tightening them ever so slightly...they broke lose...and allowed me to get more PB blaster around the threads.

I'd be very cautious about heating the block, any type of overheating and you puddle a spot in that block...and you're in a world of hurt then.

Brian.

 

How about an ez out socket? Iv used them with great success on severely rounded bolts and the right size one may work on a snapped bolt

 

Yeah, I tried a couple of those ez out sockets on Sunday with no joy. One of them was a hammer-on type, so now I've destroyed some of the few threads on the bolt / stud. Would not recommend those.

 

Thanks for the many suggestions guys. Have been hitting it with PB blaster and will continue to do so. Am going to try and start with the 2 nut method while waiting for Amazon to deliver the ratcheting extractor. Is heat gun going to be sufficient, or is a torch needed? Thanks again...

 

The tool I posted the link to, allows you to slide the tool down all the way down over the stud, gripping the stud close to the "stuck" thread as possible. If your trying to twist this stud up high, your more than likely going to get a twist in the stud while not applying all the force down low like you need to. Especially on a "torque to yield" bolt. You need to get down low

 

Thanks Brian. Wouldn't heating the bolt cause it ti expand, making it more difficult to remove? Point taken about heating block.

 

The bolt extractor that motorhead suggested is the way to go for sure.

As for heat> Use a PROPANE TORCH (You DON'T NEED MORE HEAT THAN THAT!) for about 5 - 10 minutes and then spray with PB blaster until it cools. With that amount of heat it will not cause any problems, but it will get the penetrating oil in the right place fast. Repeat this a few times. It will shock you how well it works.


When you get the extractor tool same thing, heat with propane torch... attach tool and remove the bolt.... then back to HAPPY TOWN!!! You'll get it.

 

This is the "gold" standard of stud extractors.

you can get them in 3/8 and 1/2 Drive

https://www.jbtoolsales.com/mayhew-t...FU5tfgod4wML5Q

edit* here is a cheaper link:

http://www.toolplanet.com/product/RR...FU6Vfgodx4AADw

 

+1 on the above stud extractor, I used the exact same model from O'reilly's to remove a broken thermostat bolt on my 97'