If you use bolts to reassemble, make sure the holes in the block are clean and dry. Any oil, coolant, or pb blaster can alter the torque reading on reassembly.

 

true but if you use the stretch bolts (new of course) make sure to lightly oil them with motor oil but not too much and cause yourself to create a hydrolock situation. If you can spare it, get the arp studs. They are around $150 shipped from lucky8

 

The best thing for lubing a stuck bolt is a 50-50 mix of acetone and auto trans fluid.

There's a test floating around that shows this mix far exceeded anything on the market.

 

All the head bolts came out with rust on the threads. Was going to PB blast the holes, then clean and dry. Good move or no? And why oil instead of anti-seize on head bolts?

 

I don't think it matters what you use to clean the bolt holes as long as they are clean and dry before reassembly. As for why oil on the head bolts, it's because oil is specified in the RAVE.

 

Thanks Red. I've been using a combination of the Rave, Pauls P38 blog and selected old posts to guide me thru the hg job. The oil vs. Anti seize is a curiosity more than anything.

 

I have always lightly lubed cylinder head bolt threads as it reduces friction when torquing the head down so reduces any false torque or angle readings, i.e. achieving less torque/angle than actual required. Also always lightly chase the threads in the block with a plug tap and clean them out with an airline. All of the foregoing is common practice when rebuilding any engine, (and I've rebuilt a few over 50 years , around 100 I guess), and this avoids later problems. Dry unlubed bolts/studs/nuts always equals high friction surface to surface.

 

Offroadfrance is right on! I did my head gaskets too and with lots of checking, no anti seize on those just oil. Many engine rebuilder suggest.