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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 11:46 PM
  #11  
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From: NNJ
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Originally Posted by JKFL03
thanks for the your reply, I now Im getting power to the relay, The fuse on the back of the black box the relay is good. The switch does not light up, so im thinking its the relay. My question is can you just put in a regular relay or dose it need to be this sealed unit? Thanks
again.
I think it is the relay. After toying with it for a while a couple weeks ago, I was able to get them to go on, but I would hear the relay click off after about 5 or 10 seconds. I've been trying to track down what I could use (has to be a Hella or aftermarket relay available), but have not had the time to snoop around. There are easy ways to bypass the relay (and still keep it fused) but I would not want to do that.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 10:45 AM
  #12  
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I still trying to get these things to work. I was wondering if Im missing any fuses or relays in my fuse box? Thanks Again for your time guys.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 11:37 AM
  #13  
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From: NNJ
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Originally Posted by JKFL03
I still trying to get these things to work. I was wondering if Im missing any fuses or relays in my fuse box? Thanks Again for your time guys.
The fuse should be right under the relay box in the engine compartment. That is the only fuse I know of for these. It would be coming off the hot lead to the battery. Test for power at that fuse, test for power going into the 8 pin coming thru the firewall from the dash switch and go from there. I am good from both ends, so thinking it is the relay itself.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 12:33 PM
  #14  
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Yes I test the hot leads from battery to fuse other side of fuse to the 10 pin. I have power from them the green wire going thru the firewall to the headlight selector. I also have a wihite wire with green strip on the 10 pin thats hot also, what thats does or comes from?????. Its always hot when with keys removed??? when I turn the high beams on, at the 10 pin the green wire is hot.. Im also thinking its the relay. The barnacle switch has 2 wires to it blue and red. I have no power to that, but Im thinking with the relay not working Im not going to get the switch to light up.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 01:34 PM
  #15  
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From: NNJ
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Originally Posted by JKFL03
Yes I test the hot leads from battery to fuse other side of fuse to the 10 pin. I have power from them the green wire going thru the firewall to the headlight selector. I also have a wihite wire with green strip on the 10 pin thats hot also, what thats does or comes from?????. Its always hot when with keys removed??? when I turn the high beams on, at the 10 pin the green wire is hot.. Im also thinking its the relay. The barnacle switch has 2 wires to it blue and red. I have no power to that, but Im thinking with the relay not working Im not going to get the switch to light up.
I think your colors are slightly different than mine. Here is what I see:
Blue with yellow and black to each light
Red from battery (thru 15a fuse)
Black to ground
Skinny red and skinny blue through firewall to switch
Light Blue with Orange and White I don't know... looks like they go to the fuse panel in the engine compartment. I can't find anything in the manual or RAVE that put a factory fuse/relay inside that box. So, it is either an issue there or something inside the sealed relay box.
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 02:13 PM
  #16  
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Do you know if your Lt Blue and orange wire is hot. Looks like the same set up. When you did get them on is the click your hear from the sealed relay? I have searched also in the Rave to see what the always hot wire is from no luck. I hate to pay LR for a relay. So now its on for a search for a aftermaket, if I or you found one Ill let you know, Thanks Again for the help
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 03:54 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by JKFL03
Do you know if your Lt Blue and orange wire is hot. Looks like the same set up. When you did get them on is the click your hear from the sealed relay? I have searched also in the Rave to see what the always hot wire is from no luck. I hate to pay LR for a relay. So now its on for a search for a aftermaket, if I or you found one Ill let you know, Thanks Again for the help
No clue. After the initial messing around, I have not been able to get them to fire at all. I was working on it alone that night, so was not right there to hear it either. There has to be a relay or something in the fuse box from those other wires.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 04:13 PM
  #18  
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I know, and I want to know why there is 2 hot leads, the red with fuse and the white on mine and ours if it is LT blue. I wonder what size relay it is. Do you have a barnacle switch?
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 08:44 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Snafu / Disco Fries
I can't find anything in the manual or RAVE that put a factory fuse/relay inside that box.

In the front driving light installation instructions, you remove the engie compartment fuse box, remove connector C572, install a wire included in the driving light kit into an empty receptacle on that connector, then reconnect it to the bottom of the fuse box.

I have been searching the RAVE for the past 20 minutes trying to determine to which relay or fuse that C572 connector goes to, but I cannot. I would go pull out my fuse box just to see where it goes (I installed the OEM light kit, just like you guys have) but in the garage, I can't get to that side of the vehicle because of proximity to a wall.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 09:45 PM
  #20  
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Im going to say that goes to the high beam????
 
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