I figured that would be redundant. Maybe not though, that could be good thinking. The switch on the dash had wires going to the other switches. If I remember correctly I thought it went to the fog lights. I figured fogs on means low beams and they are powered, fogs off (but switch engaged) means highs and aux fire. Crap. Now I'm wondering if maybe the fogs need to be on (as in the switch engaged) for the aux to go on with the highs. I can't replicate them going on again.
It would make sense that the other wire goes to the high beams though, it really would. IIRC on that one, there is a fuse under the hood for the high beams.

 

I don't think so. I REALLY wish my memory was better regarding which wire went where on the installation. I remember tapping into the right headlight pigtail with a wire from the kit, which would be the signal wire for high beams engaged allowing for driving light operation. In briefly skimming through RAVE just now, I didn't see any kind of high beam fuse or relay in the engine compartment box.

To Snafu: When you said you heard the relay click off after 10 seconds or so, are you sure it was the add-on 10 wire panel bolted to the firewall side of the fuse box that was doing the clicking, and not a relay in the box itself?

 

They don't. If I engage both my driving lights, and my fog lights with the binnacle switches: On low beams- fog lights are on and aux lights off. When I switch to high beams- fog lights go off and aux lights go on. I don't have to have the fog lights on for the aux to engage. There have been several times during the day (headlights off) where I have turned on the aux lights with the binnacle switch, then flashed my brights by pulling the headlight lever toward me, and the aux lights light up when the headlight lever is pulled to high beams.

 

The factory spot "kit" is a load of rubbish, unreliable and intermitent. Best bet is remove it and replace / modify the wiring with a standard 4 pin relay.
The front fogs have no input with their operation at all.

have a read here :-

http://www.discovery2.co.uk/spots.html

 

Yes I came across this last night, This is what I doing to do. . Im going to take control over something in this truck.

 

I wish I knew. As I was solo, I just heard a click as the lights went off.

 

That is fantastic. I'm wondering if it could be done just using the original switch (non latching) and wires that are already there.

 

+1 for UP's advice. Dump the OEM setup and just run a standard relay.

IMO, Given the complexity of the D2's electrical systems, the smart bet is to stick with the KISS philosophy whenever possible.

I went through this last summer installing a a set of Hella 550's on my wife's Toyota. It sounds like either the Rover instructions are even worse than the Hella instructions were or the setup they use is needlessly complex. Figuring it out for the relatively simple Toyota gave me a much better understanding of how the relay's work, and makes me think what you've described so far isn't a good design to try retrofitting.

For a simple reliable setup you can get all the parts you need at Advanced Auto for less than $30...much less if you can use the switch and wiring you have. To wire the switch you need 3 wires running to the switch (Pwr from source(i.e.- highbeam + side of vehicle wiring harness), Grnd, Signal out (connected to the relay (prong #86))) and then just run a standard relay.

Connections to/from the standard relay will be: Signal (#86 from switch), Grnd (#85), Power (fused) line from the battery (#30), and power out to the lights (#87). The only other thing you'll need to be certain is correctly connected is the ground wires from the lights themselves.

This configuration will provide power to engage the relay whenever you turn the high-beams on and it will turn the lights off when the high-beams are off.

Whatever other wires the OEM instructions are telling you to hook up to are extraneous and probably adding un-necessary complexity to what should be a pretty simple setup.

Anyway, like I said above, the Hella instructions aren't terribly clear, but once you figure them out they do make sense. They are extremely generic and can be applied to just about any non-HID driving/fog light installation. On the off chance that you might find them helpful here is a link to them:
http://www.hella.com/produktion/Hell...structions.pdf

 

I'm sure it probably could be done, but do you think it's a good idea to start cutting into your D2's electrical system without a 100% clear understanding of what every one of the wires does?

 

Thanks for the great info.. I just have a question, why do you see some relays wired different. They use the 86 for ground, and use the 85 for the switch?? they use the same 30 for hot lead from battery, and 87 to the output (lights). Thanks