Burning too rich
#1
Burning too rich
Mass Air Flow Sensor...check
New Exhaust (pipes, Cats, Muff., exhaust manifolds)...check
Spark Plugs, plug wires, ignition coils...check
Sparkling clean throttle body...check
All vacuum lines replaced
All coolant lines replaced
Radiator replaced
Thermostat
All fluids replaced
all filters replaced
Work performed and completed today
New valve cover gaskets...check
New head gasket and bolts...check
New oil separator/PCV valve...check
What's next? Replace all remaining sensors, fuel injectors, and whatever else. Before you know it, I'll have 10k. in this thing. I definitely picked a gem. Kinda like a sore pecker-you can't beat it.
New Exhaust (pipes, Cats, Muff., exhaust manifolds)...check
Spark Plugs, plug wires, ignition coils...check
Sparkling clean throttle body...check
All vacuum lines replaced
All coolant lines replaced
Radiator replaced
Thermostat
All fluids replaced
all filters replaced
Work performed and completed today
New valve cover gaskets...check
New head gasket and bolts...check
New oil separator/PCV valve...check
What's next? Replace all remaining sensors, fuel injectors, and whatever else. Before you know it, I'll have 10k. in this thing. I definitely picked a gem. Kinda like a sore pecker-you can't beat it.
#3
#4
I get different sets of codes every time I replace/repair/perform service. Next thing you know, I'll be down to replacing the brains of the DISCO.
VIN NUMBER: SALTY16433A825754
VIN NUMBER: SALTY16433A825754
#5
#7
What I like to do is, back probe an easy to get to 5v wire, like from the MAF sensor. Sometimes you'll find right away that it's being pulled down by something. If so, unplug one sensor at a time until it jumps back up to 5v if it does jump back up, the last one you unplugged is where to look for the problem. If it doesn't, I usually look at any point where the wires lay over the engine and make sure, first of all, that the conduit is intact.
If I don't find anything there, I usually go to the computer and check all of the powers and grounds.
If I don't find anything there, I usually go to the computer and check all of the powers and grounds.
#9
Yeah, I just forgot to mention that I replaced them and yes, they are Bosch. I may have found the problem earlier. Multiple conductors with stripped off insulation, cheaply butt-spliced and wrapped with electrical tape. I'm a Master Electrician and a EE and such crap work just kills me...ghetto splicing! There's no splicing on such low voltage. Small conductor size coupled with a +2/-2 allowable voltage gain and drop on DC circuits, I will have to replace all of the spliced circuits. All this goes along with what I found the other day with the three bobby pins that were shoved inside wire terminals of the rear left brake signal/bulb fixture...I guess that the previous owners where trying to establish better continuity. SMH
Last edited by LRDISCONEWBIE777; 09-11-2015 at 09:26 PM.
#10
Here is something I read about it.
Check to see if you have stoplights. If you do not have lights, check:
If you have stoplights:
- Fuse F1 in the fascia fuse box. (Discovery, if the fuse blows, check the terminals on the back window grids making sure they are not touching each other causing a short. They get bent easily).
- Inspect the brake light switch on the brake pedal (the brake light switch has four wires on it and the cruise switch has two wires and a vacuum line on it).
- If switch is intact jump the green/purple wire and the green/orange wire; the brake lights should come on enabling the shift out of park.
If you have stoplights:
- Pop the top of the shift lever off and check to see if the clip on the button is intact. They have been know to come off and not lift the rod in the handle.
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LRDISCONEWBIE777 (09-11-2015)