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Buying 2003 Trans & T-case

Old Oct 19, 2012 | 11:51 AM
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Default Buying 2003 Trans & T-case

I found a low milage Trans and t-case for sale and have a few questions:

(1) I have a 2001 Disco II. I am assuming that they are interchangable?

(2) Is 2003 the year that the CDL was not offered? - My 2001 has a CDL?

(3) Given that the trans / T-case is out of the truck so it can not be test driven - Is there anything I should look for outside of the obvious "burnt smell", metal shavings in the fluids, that can be checked prior to purchasing?
 
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 11:55 AM
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Why are you wanting to install a non-CDL in your truck, what happened to your old one? There are difference between the case you have and the 03 both for the t/case and tranny, enough that I wouldn't want the hassel of makes all the changes necessary to make it fit.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 01:05 PM
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Why are you replacing your transmission/ transfer case?

In addition to a bunch of other things, I'm pretty sure that you'll have to replace both prop shafts, since the ZF 4HP24 and 03/04 transfer case combo are slightly longer, necessitating a longer front shaft, and a shorter rear shaft (someone feel free to correct me on that).

Not worth the hassle, IMO.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 01:29 PM
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Confused like everyone else??????????????

Why would you want to do a downgrade and you are going to need more than just the t-case and transmission. Lots of changes needed to make this work.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 11:13 AM
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I am in the process of collecting replacement parts. The truck has high millage and I came across a 2003 tranny / t-case with only 40K miles on it. I sounds like I will be passing on this deal.

I figured there were differences, but was not sure. In any event I would like some more info on what parts "are compatible" with my truck. What Year Disco's and/or RR

I am going to start looking for Engine, Trans, T-case, and Drive train parts.

I have a 2001 Disco II with a Bosch 4.0 (w/o secondary air).

The truck has been great to me (knocking on wood) and has no ck engine lights, noises, leaks, etc. - so if it ain't broke (yet) don't fix it. But with alot of DII's heading for the junk yard I figure I can start looking and pick-up some deals while I am not in emergency repair mode.

Some of the things I have been keeping an eye with my truck are minor but can become major are:

(1)The lower end of the motor and oil pump are original and will be a matter of time B4 something wears out and I am in the market for a replacment.

(2) I still have the original A/C compressor and the clutch squeeks every now and again. (air still blows cold, but the squeak does not go away when I engage /dis-engage) -

(3) The transmission acts like it is low on fluid when I first start the truck and try to immediately pull away. I have to let the truck run for about 10 seconds before I pull away (it feels like the clutches are slipping...or fluid is low.) But from there, it shifts fine and shows no signs of problems. And if I get in the truck once it is warm, it is a non-issue, I just need to do this on cold starts in the AM.

(4) The T-case sounds like it has some bearing noise. I thought it was a hub bearing or one of the diffs. But after going through the exercise of driving with only one drive shaft (1st the rear, then the front) and checking the hub bearing for wear. I located the noise by running the truck while it was on the lift and got under it to find the noise.
 

Last edited by marshman442; Oct 22, 2012 at 11:25 AM.
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 11:44 AM
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So, when was the last time you service the tranny and t/case, they rarely act up unless they have not been maintained?
 
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by marshman442

(1)The lower end of the motor and oil pump are original and will be a matter of time B4 something wears out and I am in the market for a replacment.

(2) I still have the original A/C compressor and the clutch squeeks every now and again. (air still blows cold, but the squeak does not go away when I engage /dis-engage) -

(3) The transmission acts like it is low on fluid when I first start the truck and try to immediately pull away. I have to let the truck run for about 10 seconds before I pull away (it feels like the clutches are slipping...or fluid is low.) But from there, it shifts fine and shows no signs of problems. And if I get in the truck once it is warm, it is a non-issue, I just need to do this on cold starts in the AM.

(4) The T-case sounds like it has some bearing noise. I thought it was a hub bearing or one of the diffs. But after going through the exercise of driving with only one drive shaft (1st the rear, then the front) and checking the hub bearing for wear. I located the noise by running the truck while it was on the lift and got under it to find the noise.
1: If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

2: Are you sure it's not the belt? If it the compressor, and it doesn't go away when the A/C is off, it's probably a bearing in the clutch.

3: Fairly normal. A lot of people mention it. Other brands of transmissions do this too, especially after they get older. I'd not worry about it unless it gets worse. You should still do routine maintenance.

4: The t-case is kind of noisy anyway. That is something improved in the 03-04 transfer cases. If your 01 doesn't have a CDL, the 03 case might be a little quieter "upgrade".... but I'd probably replace it with something with a CDL, and live with what little noise might be there in a 99-01.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 09:40 PM
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1: If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I agree. But will need a replacement motor in the near future. Any other option out there besides Turner Enginnering or Atlantic British?

2: Are you sure it's not the belt? If it the compressor, and it doesn't go away when the A/C is off, it's probably a bearing in the clutch. I am pretty sure it is the clutch or bearing b/c it eventually does go away. However it seems to appear every so often when it is humid and/or dew on the ground in the AM on a cold start. It goes away once it warms up.

3: Fairly normal. A lot of people mention it. Other brands of transmissions do this too, especially after they get older. I'd not worry about it unless it gets worse. You should still do routine maintenance. I change the Trans fluid / filter every 45K miles. But started to change it every 15K since about 200K

4: The t-case is kind of noisy anyway. That is something improved in the 03-04 transfer cases. If your 01 doesn't have a CDL, the 03 case might be a little quieter "upgrade".... but I'd probably replace it with something with a CDL, and live with what little noise might be there in a 99-01. I'm running royal purple 85W 140 in both diffs and the t-case. Is there anyone out there that sells reman t-cases?
 
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 06:35 AM
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1. yes there is Oklahoma European LLC. they will sell you a compete long block for the same money you will end up paying Truner and Atlanic British for short blocks.


Land Rover Engine Remanufactured 4 6 Long Block w Flanged Cylinder Liners | eBay
 
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by marshman442
Is there anyone out there that sells reman t-cases?[/B]
Yes, but I don't think it's worth it unless you are also buying upgrades at the same time. Even then, I'm not so sure.

Lucky8 Llc. - Take the road less traveled...

You can buy a used case for $200 shipped from a guy over on discoweb.
 
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