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A/C Compressor Clutch Fix

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Old Jun 27, 2017 | 04:18 PM
  #21  
number9's Avatar
Pro Wrench
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Coastal Georgia
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Air conditioning compressor clutch relay supply
A feed from fuse 6 in the engine compartment fusebox, is connected to the contacts of the
air conditioning compressor clutch relay.
Air conditioning compressor clutch operation
When the main relay is energised, a feed passes from the relay contacts to the coil of the air
conditioning compressor clutch relay. The compressor clutch relay coil is earthed on a BS
wire to the ECM.
When conditions are correct, the ECM provides the earth path which in turn energises the
compressor clutch relay coil closing the contacts. The feed from fuse 6 in the engine
compartment fusebox passes through the relay contacts and from the fusebox is connected
on a BG wire to the air conditioning compressor clutch. The feed operates the air
conditioning compressor clutch which is connected to earth header C0018 (Td5 engines) or
earth eyelet connector C0807-1 (V8 engines).
Dual pressure switch
The dual pressure switch protects the refrigerant system from extremes of pressure. The normally closed switch is
installed in the top of the receiver drier. If minimum or maximum pressure limits are exceeded the switch contacts
open, causing the compressor clutch to be disengaged. The minimum pressure limit protects the compressor, by
preventing operation of the system unless there is a minimum refrigerant pressure (and thus refrigerant and
lubricating oil) in the system. The maximum pressure limit keeps the refrigerant system within a safe operating
pressure.
R11. Compressor clutch (A/C only)
Some FYI from EL & WM.

Good luck.
......
 
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Old Jun 27, 2017 | 09:30 PM
  #22  
LR03NJ's Avatar
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From: Linden, NJ
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Originally Posted by CollieRover
Can you swap in your wife's a/c control unit and see if it works then? So I only have a little electrical knowledge, but it could be the ground is bad, or that you have a short to ground on the positive wire. I don't think you have any recourse than to trace the wires. depending on how it is routed through the engine it could easily get chafed or melted to another wire.

you've gotten the clutch to work with the battery so it would not seem to be mechanical.
Thanks Collie
I just found a control unit I got long time ago when I had an ac problem. The unit is good but still now juice to the clutch. I have been reading the RAVE plenty and need more time I guess to trace the root of this problem. I'll post some updates. Im just checking how to check the wiring, HAHAHA! some situation here.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2017 | 06:35 AM
  #23  
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From: Chicago
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Originally Posted by LR03NJ
Thanks Collie
I just found a control unit I got long time ago when I had an ac problem. The unit is good but still now juice to the clutch. I have been reading the RAVE plenty and need more time I guess to trace the root of this problem. I'll post some updates. Im just checking how to check the wiring, HAHAHA! some situation here.
did you swap the relay with another? That could be it.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2017 | 09:48 PM
  #24  
JUKE179r's Avatar
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From: Britainistan, UK
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More info about the Denso A/C compressor and clutch removal...
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/jo...622_clutch.pdf
 
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Old Jun 28, 2017 | 10:40 PM
  #25  
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From: Linden, NJ
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Originally Posted by JUKE179r
More info about the Denso A/C compressor and clutch removal...
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/jo...622_clutch.pdf
Thats a great resource and thanks. I checked with the other disco with working A/C, that when its on and turned to the max, it will show voltage on the connector end. But, the other does not have power at all. MAVIS auto, said that the A/C compressor is shut and not working and I had to pay $800.00++ to fix it. I am sure that the compressor has nothing to do with the system not working at this point. The clutch worked when directly jumped to battery. Checked all fuses and relay and they all worked, switching with the working disco with A/C. My guess is also the switch on the dryer, but at the moment it could be any switch. I also got a gauge to test pressure in the system since it wont work if MAVIS fooled me by telling me they vacuum and recharge the system to full capacity but not.
I did some searching and probably I can find whats wrong. I'm waiting for a better tester I ordered online to check the actual electrical sockets for faults. If they all work then I can probably check all the sensors.
I now have an idea where to start and I'll try how far I can troubleshoot the system. So far, I got the auxiliary fan working again but not sure if its getting the right power too. I'll just invest in a good quality tester instead of paying MAVIS who is bull****ting me at the moment. Well, it will be a guess work and will be needing your inputs as I proceed next week.
Thank you
 
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Old Jun 23, 2020 | 07:44 PM
  #26  
Debbie1969's Avatar
1st Gear
Joined: Jun 2020
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Default A/C Clutch for 2004

Is there a clutch repair kit for 2004 Land Rover Discovery II? Or the 2003 one works ?
Land Rover DISCOVERY AC Compressor Clutch REPAIR KIT 2001 2002 2003 A/C - AC Compressor Clutches | thechillman

*Edit*
Supposedly there is a kit at AutoZone for $20 Made by Santech A/C Comp Clutch Installation Kit #MT0985[/QUOTE]
 
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Old Oct 21, 2020 | 06:41 PM
  #27  
Sinclair Palavecino's Avatar
Joined: Oct 2020
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Default Bump

Originally Posted by LR03NJ
Thats a great resource and thanks. I checked with the other disco with working A/C, that when its on and turned to the max, it will show voltage on the connector end. But, the other does not have power at all. MAVIS auto, said that the A/C compressor is shut and not working and I had to pay $800.00++ to fix it. I am sure that the compressor has nothing to do with the system not working at this point. The clutch worked when directly jumped to battery. Checked all fuses and relay and they all worked, switching with the working disco with A/C. My guess is also the switch on the dryer, but at the moment it could be any switch. I also got a gauge to test pressure in the system since it wont work if MAVIS fooled me by telling me they vacuum and recharge the system to full capacity but not.
I did some searching and probably I can find whats wrong. I'm waiting for a better tester I ordered online to check the actual electrical sockets for faults. If they all work then I can probably check all the sensors.
I now have an idea where to start and I'll try how far I can troubleshoot the system. So far, I got the auxiliary fan working again but not sure if its getting the right power too. I'll just invest in a good quality tester instead of paying MAVIS who is bull****ting me at the moment. Well, it will be a guess work and will be needing your inputs as I proceed next week.
Thank you
Just enquiring if your issue was ever resolved??
I'm having the exact same issue.
 
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Old May 15, 2021 | 06:46 PM
  #28  
gmuiter's Avatar
Three Wheeling
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 53
Likes: 14
From: Pittsburgh, PA, USA
Default I understand this is an older thread

I am resurrecting it because I am having the exact same issue and looking for what was the fix here if anyone knows?

2003 Discovery 2
134k miles

Issue: AC not blowing cold after a full professional recharge last fall.

Upon observation, I am not hearing the compressor kick in, nor do I see it spinning when "Econ" is off, on, nor in Auto mode either.

Tests so far:
1) I disconnected the two wire plug that leads to the front of the compresor.
2) I put a volt meter in the tail that comes from under the intake manifold area and reads no (very low, .02) voltage.
3) I hot wired the female part of the compressor plug straight to the battery and when I completed the circuit, the compressor started to run as it should.
4) I hooked up my can of 134a refrigerant to the low-side port and I am reading zero (nothing). Seems like maybe there is nothing in the system at all???
5) I already installed a new condenser cooling fan and new fuse. Im able to force output from my iLand OBD2 port and the fans spin properly.

So - Im curious if anyone has any thoughts here. Is my system refusing to kick in because maybe there is zero refrigerant? Would that be why I have no plausible signal being pushed from the AC control unit (see above #2)?

Thanks for any help.
 
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Old May 15, 2021 | 09:19 PM
  #29  
Extinct's Avatar
Baja
Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Lynchburg VA
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Yep, you have a leak and no refrigerant in the system. Usually you can find it by finding the oily spot in the system. If not, you may have to charge it with dye and look for it with UV dye. Most common leak point is the AC compressor shaft seal.
 
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Old May 15, 2021 | 11:14 PM
  #30  
gmuiter's Avatar
Three Wheeling
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 53
Likes: 14
From: Pittsburgh, PA, USA
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Thanks for the suggestion. First time digging into an AC unit then for me - where is the "AC compressor shaft seal"? Is this a repair or replacement of the compressor completely?


 
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