give it try seriously. even the guy at the smog station wasn't buying it when i explained the whole saga. he was thinking it was just maybe a coincidence. ive gotten to know him since bc i have quite a few older collectable cars that i take to him now and he told me last time i was there he's been recommending it to all the customers that are having issues. he said its been working on atleast 80% or higher of the cars that have used it. im a full believer bc i went through way to much **** to think it was random coincidence that it cleared half a tank after i added that stuff.

 

I wanted to do an update on all the threads that I participated on this forum related to passing smog in California. My intent is to give my findings based on my circumstances that may or may not help others in the future. When I started I had just purchased a D2 and knew nothing about this specific issue. I want to make a caveat ymmv specifically that I had no faulty emission control devices. Obviously, If you have a DTC specific to the emission system you need to fix that component. How do you do that get a hold of a diagnostic OBD2 and start learning about the emissions system specifically how the ECU uses each device like the upstream and downstream O2 sensors.

I drove 300 mi and was unable to get the catalytic converter monitor up. The mechanic I spoke to started throwing things like it could be the O2 sensor It could be the catalytic converter but these were all speculations. The smog guy was like go drive the vehicle and come back and we'll test it.

I got really frustrated not having a diagnostic tool to look at. So rather than looking over somebody's shoulder I went out and purchased one from Amazon. Somewhere in this forum somebody recommended the icarsoft D2 obdII reader. Great reader so far as I can tell at this moment in time.

Next, I scoured this forum for information on specific drive cycles for the D2. I was tired of being in the dark information wise. I printed out the drive cycles and got to work.

When I started this I had seven of the eight IM (inspection maintenance) monitors up. I did that simply by just driving a lot. As I stated above I had all seven except for the catalytic conv monitor up. A neighbor suggested I reset the ECU by clearing all the DTCs. I did this but in retrospect It wasn't necessary. My findings were as long as you don't have a DTC that is associated with the engine management part of the ECU as in my case the ABS DTC was active, It will not stop any of the drive cycles. After doing drive cycles c&d my catalytic monitor came up (I live in southern California so I did my drive cycles at night It made it much easier) but my evap monitor didn't. It was at this point that I started to doubt myself and whether or not the DTC I had active was causing it not to complete the drive cycle. I went to the bimmer forum and somebody there assured me that an ABS DTC would not stop the drive cycle, I forged on and made sure my gas tank was between 3/4 and 1/4 full and did drive cycle A and E which I believe are specifically tailored to the evap as you need to do cold starts. I tried drive cycle A&E a couple times after a full fill up It did not work. As soon as my gas tank reached 3/4 boom!! my 8th monitor came up. The next morning I took it to the smog guy and I passed.

I'm going to post this on a couple other threads that were related to this so this might become redundant but hopefully I can save the next guy some time. THE DRIVE CYCLES WORK!!

 

Hi, new to this thread. Just purchased a Defender 110 HSE from MI and brought to CA. Was told I need to pass smog test in order to register the car. Went to smog center 5 times. Each time, the other line items on the device they connected were set EXCEPT O2 sensor. Each time I was told to driver the vehicle. I've driven it 500 miles and still the 02 sensor won't reset and I can't get the smog check done.
The car has only 4k miles on it.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Do I take it to LR dealer?
Thank you.

 

it’s under warranty. take it to the dealer.