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Can I use the heated windscreen wiring for aux lights?

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  #31  
Old 05-23-2014, 06:12 AM
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Frank4

lets recap you asked about using you heated W/S because it would be plug and play, Because you had the ends of the cables.

THIS ISN'T PLUG AND PLAY.

[I]The D2 rear wiper switch would also need its 'binnacle' switch front to be changed for a 'facia' switch front.

This is easily done, as they just unclip.

Also, the rear wiper switch has no provision for a 'tell-tale' LED - so, a feed from the output side of R8 would have to be taken to a dash-mounted warning light - or, the rear wiper switch modified to include a 3mm 12V LED.


To modify the wiring, would involve -

1. Cutting the Pink/Orange wire from pin 1 on the heated front screen switch connector to the BCU.

2. Cutting the Pink/Brown wire from the BCU to R8

3. Join the Pink/Orange wire from pin 1 on the switch connector, to the Pink/Brown wire from R8

Your latching facia switch will now switch R8's earth directly Click the image to open in full size.

If you wanted to do the job neatly, without cutting and joining wires, I can supply the AMP 070 terminals to fit into the Green switch connector, as well as the Sumitomo HD090 terminals to fit into the engine compartment fuse box connector (C0573).

That way, you could just release the terminals at the switch connector and fuse box connector, tape them up to the loom, and run a new wire from the switch connector to the fuse box connector.

This would mean that you could easily revert the wiring back to 'factory'


The heated screen connectors on the scuttle panel are AMP Econoseal 250 series connectors.

I can also supply mating connectors for these, with terminals and wire seals to suit 3.0mm˛ cable.

Alternatively, you could cut the connectors off and replace them with a suitable sealed connector for 3.0mm˛ cable, such as -

Delphi Weather-Pack series

Delphi GT280 series

Delphi Metri-Pack 280, 480, or 630 series


But, these wouldn't fit onto the the mounting tabs on the D2's scuttle p
anel.[/I]

And after all this you still end up cutting and running wires to the fuse box.

So the only part you can stamp you feet about and say you were right is using the HWS switch, Oh No your not right about that either because you have to change the switch or the BCM will shut it down.

So where exactly were you right and everybody else wrong?
you know just to recap.
 

Last edited by drowssap; 05-23-2014 at 07:48 AM.
  #32  
Old 05-23-2014, 07:43 AM
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Never said cant be dont, didnt even say it shouldnt. i pointed out where he should start to the best of how i would approach the same problem, not knowing myself how those harnesses are set up. Bone away
 
  #33  
Old 05-23-2014, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by drowssap
Frank4

lets recap you asked about using you heated W/S because it would be plug and play, Because you had the ends of the cables.

THIS ISN'T PLUG AND PLAY.

[I]The D2 rear wiper switch would also need its 'binnacle' switch front to be changed for a 'facia' switch front.

This is easily done, as they just unclip.

Also, the rear wiper switch has no provision for a 'tell-tale' LED - so, a feed from the output side of R8 would have to be taken to a dash-mounted warning light - or, the rear wiper switch modified to include a 3mm 12V LED.


To modify the wiring, would involve -

1. Cutting the Pink/Orange wire from pin 1 on the heated front screen switch connector to the BCU.

2. Cutting the Pink/Brown wire from the BCU to R8

3. Join the Pink/Orange wire from pin 1 on the switch connector, to the Pink/Brown wire from R8

Your latching facia switch will now switch R8's earth directly Click the image to open in full size.

If you wanted to do the job neatly, without cutting and joining wires, I can supply the AMP 070 terminals to fit into the Green switch connector, as well as the Sumitomo HD090 terminals to fit into the engine compartment fuse box connector (C0573).

That way, you could just release the terminals at the switch connector and fuse box connector, tape them up to the loom, and run a new wire from the switch connector to the fuse box connector.

This would mean that you could easily revert the wiring back to 'factory'


The heated screen connectors on the scuttle panel are AMP Econoseal 250 series connectors.

I can also supply mating connectors for these, with terminals and wire seals to suit 3.0mm˛ cable.

Alternatively, you could cut the connectors off and replace them with a suitable sealed connector for 3.0mm˛ cable, such as -

Delphi Weather-Pack series

Delphi GT280 series

Delphi Metri-Pack 280, 480, or 630 series


But, these wouldn't fit onto the the mounting tabs on the D2's scuttle p
anel.[/I]

And after all this you still end up cutting and running wires to the fuse box.

So the only part you can stamp you feet about and say you were right is using the HWS switch, Oh No your not right about that either because you have to change the switch or the BCM will shut it down.

So where exactly were you right and everybody else wrong?
you know just to recap.
A recap? Where I was right? I asked a question as to how it could be done. I got an answer. I can be done. A couple of people offer real solutions. The only thing I was right about was the predictability of the WWNTI's.

I am not in the habit of asking questions that I know the answer to.
 
  #34  
Old 05-23-2014, 09:59 AM
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lets see you do it that way, i will await the pictures
 
  #35  
Old 05-23-2014, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by drowssap
lets see you do it that way, i will await the pictures
Really can't help yourself.
 
  #36  
Old 05-23-2014, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Motorhead1
Last i looked, this is a general discussion style of forum you boner.
Well boner, since you have a fascination with boners (perhaps you enjoy giving head or something. I won't judge) It is a general discussion style of forum. So don't get all butthurt when someone says perhaps thats not a good idea. I bet you're a bleeding heart liberal, at least you act like one.


log on to "my land rover mechanic.com" and pay for a certified mechanic info
Originally Posted by jwigum
I have to smile at all the complaints regarding "Never done it, won't work". If you don't want to hear someone say you shouldn't do X... Don't ask.

Also, don't do that. It's a hokey way to do it.

Oh look, proof for you, boner, that this IS a general discussion forum.

This is you when you take a cumshot in the mouth!
 
  #37  
Old 05-23-2014, 01:23 PM
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Well boner, since you have a fascination with boners (perhaps you enjoy giving head or something. I won't judge) It is a general discussion style of forum. So don't get all butthurt when someone says perhaps thats not a good idea. I bet you're a bleeding heart liberal, at least you act like one.

Oh oilsh*t...your SO angry...Maybe you should learn how to read??
 
  #38  
Old 05-23-2014, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Motorhead1
Oh oilsh*t...your SO angry...Maybe you should learn how to read??
I read just fine. Not sure where you're going with that one... Liberal philosophy probably.
 
  #39  
Old 05-23-2014, 04:12 PM
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This is a test....To see how many people are following this thread due to Oilsh*t trolling and belittling other members comments.

Liberal?? I ride my horses and shoot my guns motherfu*ker...

Im done
 
  #40  
Old 05-23-2014, 05:05 PM
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How'd I miss this one....
fun stuff, thanks.
i don't know if it will work. it probably will, but I am a little confused as to WHY? maybe I missed it.
 

Last edited by dusty1; 05-23-2014 at 05:14 PM.


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