Yeah I know, I just meant I’d go completely separate with wiring/relays.

 

I agree with using a cruise control switch with separate wiring and not involving the BCU. What I did is buy 5 cruise control switches, and make a nice wiring pigtail (daisy chaining power, ground, and LED, and 5 wires out for relays). Removed both fog light switches. That way I had easy room for expansion, and sure enough, I now only have 1 switch left.

 

The good thing too about the latching switch is you can use the lights with the truck off. Makes it good for a rear spot or side spots for camping.

I used a cruise switch and swapped the face for a "2" factory driving light switch face. I did the same as Jeff, pigtailed the power and ground for the internal LEDs to the factory switch, soldered, and the ran the control wires out to my relay next to my battery. Switch illuminates when the headlamps are on, as well as the indicator LED comes on when the switch is on.

That's for my 240w light bar, which is 26000 lumens

 

Yep I tapped into the illumination wiring from another switch, I didn't have to tap into a ground though (three wires coming from my relay had a ground). I came straight off the battery, and yes I can use the roof lights with the key off or the engine off. Looks 100% factory with the Aux Light #2 switch faceplate vs the cruise control faceplate.

 

Sorry, that was in response to Twix. Should've been more clear.

Anyway, yes, either option will work. I agree that the latching switch is the superior option though.

 

Oh no problem Alex