I grabbed one from a junkyard for pennies. But if it's the cooler itself you'll need to do that too. Or do a giant pile of jb weld in the mean time.
And sorry, that sucks

 

No worries. I'm used to this thing letting me down lol.

But I got both lines unhooked at the cooler end. Oddly the lower line's coupler is ridiculously rusted and the top is ok.

This might be a dumb question but how important is the trans cooler in these vehicles? Could I possibly just bypass it until the winters done?

 

Another sad update. Leaked is fixed, first tried quicksteel but the coupler was too rusted to get a good seal even after sanding and cleaning. I ended up cutting the hose and slipping it over the cooler line with some hose clamps and some copper tubing. But then this.

It seems I have destroyed a clutch pack. The truck will not go forward, only reverse. When in reverse everything is great. When in D/3/2/1 it sits stationary. I can redline it and it will barely move an inch. Funny thing is when in D and idling I can get out and barely push it and it will slowly roll along with ease. But anyways I got under and drained the fluid and there you go. Little particles flowed out with the fluid. I put the drain plug back in started it up and topped it off.

Question is which direction should I go? I stuck in deciding if I should;

a) Get a used trans from the junkyard/ebay. (If so what is a good price for a used one?)

b) Get a rebuilt trans.

c) Install a rebuild kit myself.

How easy is it to remove the trans? Could I be able to do it with hand tools and one jack?

 

For future reference...

You drain old fluid, change filter, reassemble, add fluid until it exits front fill hole (you want to be on level surface)...then start engine...run through gears (while parking brake is applied/foot on brake pedal), place shifter back in neutral/park, then continue filling until fluid pours out of the front fill hole. Usually, it's about another 2 quarts, after starting engine and running through gears.

Changing trans is not that bad of job, granted...the upper bell housing bolts are a bastard to remove. Removing motor mounts helps to reach them from top side...but it can be done from underneath. I've done it both ways. I removed the transfer case first, which allows you to reach over top the trans with extensions once trans mounts are removed also, to remove upper bolts. Plus, it gives you more wiggle room, for dropping trans.

Brian.