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CAN'T PULL OUT HEATER RETURN PIPE TO REPLACE "O" RING and then some

Old May 31, 2016 | 09:00 AM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by Charlie_V
Oil separator pulls out from the bottom on some years and the top on others. What year is yours?

Those little bolts. I don't know the specs but they fall all of the time so it would be good to know. I know they are the same as the bolts on the fuel rail (but longer) but that's no help because those are buried deeper. I'll see if I can find an extra one and have the shop tell me what it is, unless someone else knows. The have to be an M2 or M4 with 1.25 or 1.50 pitch about 5/8ths (inch) long.
...thanks again for your response Charlie_V; mine is a 2002 Disco S2 SE; it does protrude from atop and seems to come out that way too, just unsure if to jank-it out or twist-it out, but it seems to be tight in place from first interaction; although, from what I can also see it does look in good shape and in one piece, so unsure if needs replacement, or is just a thing of "if though can replace it, thou shall".

As per the coil pack's bolts, I'm not asking about the small ones that attaches each coil pack to the metal plate / assembly, I'm asking about the ones that attaches the "metal plate /assembly" to the engine, so the "whole thing" does not move there, now the "whole thing" is just sitting there. ;-]#
 
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Old May 31, 2016 | 09:08 AM
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The coil pack bolts are M6x1.0, I believe. I just replaced several of mine. Length is not critical, so slightly shorter is fine.
It's possible to partially install the coil pack using just the lower two bolts screwed in about one turn, which lets you lean the coils back towards the firewall while you angle the intake into place. Once the intake is settled you can actually see the upper holes so getting those bolts in is relatively simple. Having the lower bolts in place makes it much easier to simply tighten them without having to try to start them as well.
 

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Old May 31, 2016 | 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by mollusc
The coil pack bolts are M6x1.0, I believe. I just replaced several of mine. Length is not critical, so slightly shorter is fine.
It's possible to partially install the coil pack using just the lower two bolts screwed in about one turn, which lets you lean the coils back towards the firewall while you angle the intake into place. Once the intake is settled you can actually see the upper holes so getting those bolts in is relatively simple. Having the lower bolts in place makes it much easier to simply tighten them without having to try to start them as well.
I just got back from the store. They told me m6 1.25 but get both to be sure (1.0 and 1.25). I would get longer ones for the bottom because if you ever have to take the upper intake off it is best to just loosen them and tilt the coils back (the top ones are easier to reach). Putting new bolts in the bottom holes with the intake in place takes a combination of a watchmaker and and acrobat.
 
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Old May 31, 2016 | 10:37 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by mollusc
The coil pack bolts are M6x1.0, I believe. I just replaced several of mine. Length is not critical, so slightly shorter is fine.
It's possible to partially install the coil pack using just the lower two bolts screwed in about one turn, which lets you lean the coils back towards the firewall while you angle the intake into place. Once the intake is settled you can actually see the upper holes so getting those bolts in is relatively simple. Having the lower bolts in place makes it much easier to simply tighten them without having to try to start them as well.
...thanks MOLLUSC! although it seems you're also writing about the small ones that attaches each "coil pack" to the "plate" (you mentioned "several" and I think eight are used in total), your walkthrough is right on point, I'll take it into consideration when putting all back together, but I'm looking for the ones that secure the "plate" itself and I think is fastened to the engine. ;-]#
 
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Old May 31, 2016 | 10:40 AM
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No, I'm talking about the bolts that attach the pack to the back of the block and intake. There are four in total.
 
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Old May 31, 2016 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Charlie_V
I just got back from the store. They told me m6 1.25 but get both to be sure (1.0 and 1.25). I would get longer ones for the bottom because if you ever have to take the upper intake off it is best to just loosen them and tilt the coils back (the top ones are easier to reach). Putting new bolts in the bottom holes with the intake in place takes a combination of a watchmaker and and acrobat.
...thanks Charlie_V, you really went that extra mile there, greatly appreciated! ...btw, when you wrote "I would get longer ones", did you mean the 1.25's or a bit longer?

All these "coil pack" info is very valuable, since this is one of those "hard to reach" and "pain in the ***" things to take care off on its own, reason why I'm taking advantage of all the unwanted -but best decision ever disassembling I've done so far!
 
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Old May 31, 2016 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by adolfojbonilla
...thanks Charlie_V, you really went that extra mile there, greatly appreciated! ...btw, when you wrote "I would get longer ones", did you mean the 1.25's or a bit longer?

All these "coil pack" info is very valuable, since this is one of those "hard to reach" and "pain in the ***" things to take care off on its own, reason why I'm taking advantage of all the unwanted -but best decision ever disassembling I've done so far!
No 1.0 and 1. 25 refer to the thread pitch. For length the top ones should be about 1/2 to 5/8ths and the bottom 3/4ths.... Just eyeballing them anyway. Get extras. They like to tumble to the transmission bell housing where you can't see or reach them and presumably then to the roadway. Actually when I pulled my transmission found several on top of it.

When I put he bottom ones on with the intake in place, I loop the green injector harness ground in the bolt and use it to hold the bolt in the socket. Works about 50 percent of time.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2016 | 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by mollusc
No, I'm talking about the bolts that attach the pack to the back of the block and intake. There are four in total.
...great, thanks for clarifying me that, I'll look into it, today! ;-]#
 
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Old Jun 1, 2016 | 09:40 PM
  #89  
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..:: THE HEATER PIPE SITUATION ::..

The Heater Pipe situation is on hold until I finish taking care of the Rockers Cleaning Situation -since I got talked into it and now I'm unable to let go, it's been a learning adventure- as well as a few other things that should be taken care of first, since most of the top part of the engine is off... like some hose replacement, maybe spark plugs and wires, coil pack fastening, a little bit of more cleaning here and there, etc...

I guess I should open a new thread for THE ROCKER CLEANING SITUATION, I've got some awesome pics which I think you guys will enjoy; and when ready to refit the heater pipe, I'll comeback to update you guys on how it turned out; meanwhile, enjoy the short video of the piece that almost wrecked it all!
 
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Old Jun 3, 2016 | 12:52 PM
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MAN! That video reminded me of claymation/wahetever cartoons when I was a kid--that's all we had. David and Goliath (the dog). I am still haunted by their seemingly/really clay eyebrows moving around. Then my parents let me watch the exorcist and I had something new to worry about.


Even small hands and paws can make a difference if they work together. That should be the forum motto. HAHAHAHA

Very cool how the cursed part seems to spin itself at the end in your video.

How is it now?

I mean, at eight years old... really?!

.
 

Last edited by Charlie_V; Jun 3, 2016 at 03:16 PM.
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