i am working on removing the current transfer case shifter and cables. the cables have pins connecting each end and i have been very frustrated getting these pins undone.

if there was any hope of being able to remove the shift lever block above the transfer case i have the d1 box to change it to, but those 6 bolts are absurd to get to. i can almost get the two close ones but they are stuck badly, the other 4 would likely be hopeless despite significant repeated pb blaster application.

so i am using the rod end bearing / threaded bolts approach. might go with bent rod as backup, but for either option however i cant proceed until these stupid pins are out. bottom one i even tried grinding one end off. still wont budge.

any suggestions on how these things come undone?

 

Soak them in PB Blaster, let sit at least 20 minutes...longer if you can. Remove the c clips and take a hammer and a punch and try to tap out.

 

c clips? theres the clip that wraps around the cable. in pics you can see that is completely broken off on the top one and bent aside in bottom one. is that what you mean by removing c clips or does something else come off?

ill try a punch on the top one, i was mostly working on the bottom one as the top isnt really necessary to remove since this all comes out together. i cant put a punch on that bottom one, no room. ill have to try some offset pliers or push pin pliers or make something to simulate a punch.

i dont know if it is from corrosion but these pins seem like they have flared out like rivits.

thanks for the feedback!

 

Yeah yours is pretty rusted in. Did you soak in PB Blaster? Be amazed how that will help.
Blaster 11 oz. Penetrating Catalyst Lubricant-16PB-THD at The Home Depot

 

every morning before leaving for work for 4 days now

i should create my sig, i recently did the terra firma +2 suspension job. this truck has been in the northeast for over a dozen years on the original bits being untouched. i'm well aware of the powers of pb blaster!!

 

Heat. Use a small propane or map gas torch. Heat the portion you need to expand. Voila! Physics is amazing.

 

I had the similar situation only the high low cable snapped at the shifter. After I pulled everything I found out that the clevis pin was self welded to the high low lever coming out of the t case shift plate "the same one that's stuck on yours" here's a vid Watch "Pin stuck in high low lever" on YouTube
Pin stuck in high low lever: after a week of soaking and grinding I passed the buck. My mechanic had to lower my t case heat the lever "just as paul grant said" then punch out what was left of the pin. I thinkcyou could probably soak that thing for a month and not have any luck. Heat is your answer.

 

And that's why getting my mechanic to re & re my hi-lo cable cost $750, took him 8 hours and left him looking frazzled.
Good to know.

 

I prefer Kroil for rust penetration:




A bit pricey, but I'm sold.


When I got my GBR driveshaft, I was trying to loosen my original driveshaft bolts and doing the whole PBblaster soak routine. Did this for a few days. Couldn't get the bolts to turn, and I was in danger of rounding them (even rounded one of them slightly).


Father in law had Kroil. Squirted it. Waited 10 minutes, and then wacked the breaker bar with a mallet (like I had done for the past week with PB Blaster). I broke the bolts loose on the first try.


I was amazed.


At my job, it's all they use here, so the company seems sold on it also.


Just a thought if PB Blaster isn't doing the trick..

 

thanks for the ideas and that video is dead on. i took a dremel grinder to it, even taking a bit off the arm to ensure there was nothing holding it back. then i continued the pb plaster treatment. on top of that i then fashioned old pliers into something resembling an old single hole punch from grade school if you recall those and was able to push it through.

cdl install was successful.

i was trying this method with a rod end bearing.

Discovery 1 CDL into Discovery 2 - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum

even with the rod end bearing threaded all the way up it was still well below the hi lo shifter lever. and as before there was no way i was swapping that over. cutting the threads didnt seem it would get it much higher, as i was already near the top, i thought rethreading higher would have been necessary.

i decided on bent rod method, which everyone says is a pain. it started that way. i was having difficulty getting a good method to bend it, vices didnt leave enough room to get grip. i found this simple tool at harbor freight.

Tubing Bender - Save on this Manual Tubing Bender

it wasnt great and it even bent a bit itself towards the end of the process but i was able to get two greater bends in the bar and have it line up right over the shift bar.

next problem, the pin on the d1 is more a 5/16th hole instead of the 3/16th on the d2 hi lo selector. so i still had to use a 3/16th bolt, washers, nuts, like in the previous solution using the offset rod end bearing, but instead using the normal d1 rod end, and the 3/16 bolt all the way through with the washers making up for the larger hole on the rod end side.

i had to completely take the shifter apart, and i think i clocked it slightly wrong as the shifter is a little too far back in high, pushed right against the limit. still works fine, next time in there ill adjust.

did the leathers too while everything was taken apart. looks nice. had to do shifter creases side to side instead of front to back. the leather thickness that way was actually too much and limited full motion of shifter.