"centering" steering
#1
"centering" steering
I need to return my front steering back up to spec. I have replaced in the past my steering linkage and steering gear box(original leaked), So I'm going to be working on truck tomorrow and I need to center my steering, My steering wheel is not in the correct "default" position, Its a little off and I feel like the travel for turning left is tighter than the travel for the right side.
Also my slip ring on the steering column has "come off" and I need to put it back on. Any advice for the above would be greatly appreciated.
Also my slip ring on the steering column has "come off" and I need to put it back on. Any advice for the above would be greatly appreciated.
#2
#3
I got a lifetime alignment deal with tire engineers in Pelham, Al and they say that it's a pia to do a rover. It's like doing a f-250 to get it to be right and takes forever. But on the plus side, I only paid $200 for it and have them align it every 5,000 miles when the rotate and balance my tires so I've got my money's worth over and over out of em
#4
First make sure the steering box drop arm is centered using an alignment bolt in the notch with the steering wheel dead center. Instructions in RAVE. A quick check you can do is center the wheel, turn it all the left, counting the turns, then re-center, and count turns right... should be the same. An alignment shop won't fix that part for you.
#5
^^^^ Yes, it sounds like you don't have the pitman arm centered correctly on the selector shaft of the gearbox...if it is turning one way more than the other. Remove pitman arm and make slight adjustments until you get it right. Locking bolt should slide through the hole on the pitman arm and selector shaft groove easily, when aligned correctly.
Then adjust your toe. This can be done with a tape measure. Me, I usually pick up the front to give me more room and adjust rear track bar until I measure 1/8 toe-in, but if you have a drive-on lift...then just set it at 1/16 toe-in. Normally, picking it up unloads the suspension and allows for a greater amount of toe-in, once you lower the vehicle and load the suspension again...it "should" be around 1/16.
Once you have your toe adjusted to your liking, then adjust drag link to center steering wheel.
Just so we are clear about terminology...
Pitman arm is centered/connected to the selector shaft of gear box, drag link is connected to the pitman arm and steering knuckle (front side of axle), track bar/tie rod bar is connected between each steering knuckle (on back side of axle).
Brian.
Then adjust your toe. This can be done with a tape measure. Me, I usually pick up the front to give me more room and adjust rear track bar until I measure 1/8 toe-in, but if you have a drive-on lift...then just set it at 1/16 toe-in. Normally, picking it up unloads the suspension and allows for a greater amount of toe-in, once you lower the vehicle and load the suspension again...it "should" be around 1/16.
Once you have your toe adjusted to your liking, then adjust drag link to center steering wheel.
Just so we are clear about terminology...
Pitman arm is centered/connected to the selector shaft of gear box, drag link is connected to the pitman arm and steering knuckle (front side of axle), track bar/tie rod bar is connected between each steering knuckle (on back side of axle).
Brian.
Last edited by The Deputy; 04-08-2017 at 03:51 AM.
#7
#9
I've used a pitman arm puller similiar to that one, but it was made by OTC...and it was made in America...so that tells you how old it is...lol. But, they work great...especially if you used any type of lube on the shaft when you installed the pitman arm.
Did you turn the wheel lock to lock and see if it was centered or off?
Brian.
Did you turn the wheel lock to lock and see if it was centered or off?
Brian.
#10