I've tried searching previous threads, but can't find one that's similar to what I have going on, so I thought I'd ask for some help. Here's the background:

1.) The culprit is my '04 DII SE and I'm the second owner.
2.) Previous owner damaged the buttons on his one remaining key fob which then stopped working, and from that point forward used the key in the driver's door to lock and unlock the truck.
3.) He does not remember having any issues with the truck locking with this method, but the only door that locks is the rear hatch.
4.) The truck battery was iffy, so I've replaced it with a brand new one to eliminate that as a potential issue. I also had the immobilizer trip which led me to the battery to begin with. Installing the new battery solved that problem.
5.) I've also checked all fuses in both the engine compartment and inside the truck.
6.) I repaired the fob circuit board with new micro switches and replaced the key and fob body. When using the fob to open the truck, I get the same result - only the rear hatch locks.
7.) I only have an Ultragauge with me and am not getting any fault codes. I'm assuming that I'd need a better scanner to see if there were any BCM codes.
8.) I think the problem might lie in the BCM, so I pulled a BCM and ECU from the same junkyard truck so they'd match to potentially swap those in as replacements. I believe that the junkyard BCM and ECU would be bolt-ins as they should already be synced due to coming from the same junkyard truck. Let me know if that's not the case.
9.) The previous owner did not have the EKA code or the radio code (dealer never wrote it down in his owner's manual or any dealer paperwork - I have all the records, but it's no where to be found and his dealer has since changed hands and been closed down), so I believe I'd at least loose the radio if I changed out the BCM and ECU.
10.) I also know that the fob would have to be matched to the new BCM/ECU if swapped out. I know that a Nanocom has this function, but sadly...I do not own one.

Anyone have experience with something similar where not all the doors/rear hatch are locking, but the overall central locking function is working in some capacity? I'd suspect a door lock actuator if it was one, or even two doors, but not when it's all four doors.

Also, I'm driving this DII back home from FL, so does anyone in Jacksonville, FL or Chattanooga, TN have a Nanocom or other scanner with similar functions and feel generous enough to help with either BCM synching to my existing ECU and/or matching my key fob to the new/junkyard BCM and ECU? I'll be continuing on the journey home to the Pacific NW after that, but definitely stopping in those two cities for a few days at a time to visit friends.

Hoping to not have to do the drive without being able to lock the truck up at night.

Any and all help - advice or otherwise - is greatly appreciated. Thanks for checking out the thread.

 

This note isn't exactly what you are looking for, but a simple solution. My truck doors unlock well, but don't lock at times (especially when it is cold out). I keep a walking stick in the back to reach the far side and rear, close and press the back door by hand, then lock the driver door with the key. Works every time.

I changed one of the door mechanisms without much improvement. I did change out the rear mechanism because that little round spring broke. Mostly I just leave it unlocked.

 

Probably just the door lock mechanisms, I bought my truck with only 2 of the 5 still working electrically, replaced them and have been trouble free since. They are not cheap but easy enough to do.

 

I agree that it seems unlikely they'd all fail "at the same time", which could actually be different times and you just happened to get the truck after they had all failed. Before swapping computers around, one way to potentially tell might be to put a meter on the actuator and see if you're getting 12v at the pink/red wire when you unlock the doors. There are a couple pink wires at each connector and I can't decipher which ones are for lock versus superlock, but I think it's the pink/red wire. Probably be worth testing them all. It may be easiest to test them from the dash switch as well, since this rules out some other variables.

While the ECU/BCU may be linked to each other, my understanding is that the instrument cluster is also linked and your ODO will blink when it notices the mismatch. Not sure if that reverses itself when the right computers are plugged back in. I actually think it's more unlikely that all the BCU outputs would fail with no other problems.

 

How many miles on the truck? They start failing around 150k. You can get one, plug it in to the wire and see if it works.

 

I've had similar issues concerning more than one door/lock that turned out to be faulty actuators. It wasn't four at once, but I think it'd be worthwhile to start by replacing at least one.

I suspect you're home by now, but, if not, I could recommend a number of shops in/around Atlanta, GA that can handle Disco-II fobs. I'd start with Bear Valley in Roswell, GA, as I know they can sync ECU and odometers/instrument clusters as well. If you go that route, though, I believe that syncing an ECU and instrument cluster will cause the odometer to default to the higher of the two mileages, so, if your junkyard ECU has 400k and you sync it to your truck, your odometer will now show 400K miles.