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check engine light after Sea Foam

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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 07:59 AM
  #41  
Spike555's Avatar
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From: Grand Rapids MI
Default RE: check engine light after Sea Foam

No harm in driving with the light on as long as there isint a problem.
You will need to dump the K&N air filter though before youneed a new MAF.


sdsilvre-let the SeaFoak sit for 10 minutes not 30. Use the whole can. I woulddrive for a week before I did it again.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 11:09 AM
  #42  
Gramata's Avatar
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Default RE: check engine light after Sea Foam

Spike, hope it isn't too late! I drove with a freshly oiled filter for a day (when the light came on)..... Well, I have thrown out the K&N and replaced with paper. It looked like it was dry in there, but you never know. I also noticed that a vacuum line was disconnected, perhaps that was the issue causing the SES light. I reconnected and will see if the light goes away. The link below shows where the line that was disconnected is... It is not the top two tubes, but the one right below.... see pic at link.

http://gramata.net/images/LR.jpg
 
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 11:18 AM
  #43  
Spike555's Avatar
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From: Grand Rapids MI
Default RE: check engine light after Sea Foam

You should be ok with the MAF. They suck in the extra oil and get contaminated and then die. If you only ran it for a few miles I think youll be fine.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2018 | 12:52 AM
  #44  
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From: TN
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Originally Posted by Disco Mike
Glad to hear it cleared it self, never any doubt, just can't poor the stuff in too quick, it will stall the engine and throw a code.
Did you put a can in the gas tank, if not do that still and it will continue to clean up the system.
Mike
So I can put into the oil and into the fuel? At same time? I used seafoam for first time today but in my oil but after reading the can and all it is supposed to do I wondered if it would be okay to put it into both?
 
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Old Mar 12, 2018 | 11:01 AM
  #45  
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From: Denver
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Yep. You can clean the fuel system with it (one can per tank), put a can into the oil system and suck about 1/4 - 1/2 a can into the engine via vac line and clean carbon build up.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2018 | 01:38 PM
  #46  
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From: Southern OR
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Nobody should use Seafoam in their Land Rover. It's been well documented, it causes all kinds of funky SES issues.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2018 | 06:02 PM
  #47  
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From: TN
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Well here’s the thing my SES light is on so I won’t know but I had read a lot good about it so was hoping I might have same outcome. My SES light is on Bc according to O’Reilly it’s like o2 too lean or too rich something or other and my red brake light still won’t go off and I replaced the whole master brake cylinder so guess at this point can’t hurt to try to clean out all the crap?
 
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Old Mar 13, 2018 | 08:54 AM
  #48  
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From: Southern OR
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Originally Posted by Meldav32
Well here’s the thing my SES light is on so I won’t know but I had read a lot good about it so was hoping I might have same outcome. My SES light is on Bc according to O’Reilly it’s like o2 too lean or too rich something or other and my red brake light still won’t go off and I replaced the whole master brake cylinder so guess at this point can’t hurt to try to clean out all the crap?
I would replace the bad O2 sensor, and it sounds like you have a faulty brake light switch possibly, or it needs to be adjusted? The brake light switch is a common faulty part on Discos, I personally haven't had to mess with one yet. Seafoam will not fix an O2 problem.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2018 | 10:06 AM
  #49  
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From: Beaumont, TX
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I've used Seafoam in LR's for years. It "might" set a code during the Seafoam treatment, but once it's over and the code is reset it never returns.

Seafoam is good treatment to prevent carbon buildup, but unlike a lot of LR owners I give my LR's plenty of the tall skinny pedal and if you slap it into first, and hit the rev limiter you can tell instantly if you have carbon buildup or not. It will either look like you're rolling coal or it will look completely normal.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2018 | 09:28 PM
  #50  
number9's Avatar
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From: Coastal Georgia
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Originally Posted by Meldav32
my red brake light still won’t go off and I replaced the whole master brake cylinder so guess at this point can’t hurt to try to clean out all the crap?
Handbrake and low brake fluid level warning lamp
The handbrake and low brake fluid level warning lamps are connected to the instrument
pack from pin C0230-10 on a KO wire to Header C0293 LHD/C0285 RHD. From header
CO293 LHD/C0285 RHD a KO wire is connected to the handbrake switch, the handbrake
switch is locally earthed.
A second connection from header C0293 LHD/C0285 RHD is connected to the brake fluid
level switch
on a KO wire. The brake fluid level switch is earthed on a B wire.
If either of the switches closes, an earth circuit via the closed switch contacts is completed
and the handbrake/low fluid level warning lamp will be illuminated. Power for the warning
lamp is internally connected to a supply from pin C0230-19. Pin C0239-19 is supplied power
from the ignition feed from fuse 27 in the passenger compartment fusebox.
Might be some crap in/around your handbrake switch? Should be easy to check both switches with a meter.
......
 
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