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Codes 1170 and 1173 after cat delete

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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 11:24 AM
  #21  
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Things have changed a bit... since the eBay listing was put up. You can message them and back out of transaction. I include the ny-lock nuts with my drive shaft as well! Ny-lock nuts are meant to be a one time use and should be replaced when you change it out. And can ship today.
 

Last edited by lr2001silver; Nov 12, 2012 at 11:28 AM.
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 08:29 PM
  #22  
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The FRONT O2's control fueling not the rears, the rears only monitor the cats.
Yes the rear O2's need to sense some exhaust and it needs to circulate around them some.
yes the non fouler trick works.
You can also buy O2 simulators, they are a little computer that runs off of the O2 voltage and simulates the rear O2's going through warm up and then varying voltage through the run cycle, this tricks the ECU into thinking there are cats there, you can find them on e-bay.
Your front O2's might just be bad, like others have said, replace them.
The fronts are rears are the same so you can also swap front to rear and see what happens.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 08:47 PM
  #23  
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Front and rears are not the same. The connectors are even inversed.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 08:50 PM
  #24  
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Thank you, I did not know that.
On the DI they are the same so I ***umed...
 
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 06:43 AM
  #25  
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Thanks, looks like I will get some new front O2s and see what happens.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 10:19 AM
  #26  
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Just get someone with a T-4 to put the euro program in the ecu. It deletes the rear o2's
 
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 10:26 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by RoverMasterTech
Just get someone with a T-4 to put the euro program in the ecu. It deletes the rear o2's
What is a T-4, and whom may have one? thanks
 
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 08:00 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by RoverMasterTech
Just get someone with a T-4 to put the euro program in the ecu. It deletes the rear o2's
Wow, thank you very much.
I assume this can be done with a DI too?
 
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